One of the (very) few advantages of being stuck at home during this pandemic has been an opportunity to see more of my home province of Saskatchewan. Last summer and fall not only did I do a couple of day trips with friends but I took four day tours with Engelheim transport, a local Regina company.
I have to admit my favourite day out was the "Big Muddy Valley and Outlaws" tour. While I had been to the Big Muddy previously many years back I was eager to revisit and learn more of its history.
So in early October, I hopped on board and off we went. The bus is only booked to half capacity so it was easy to social distance, hand gel was a must each time we boarded the bus, masks were required when you got on and off the bus and in any buildings we visited. I felt totally safe and oh my, it was so good to have an adventure!!
Despite the name the Big Muddy isn't a big huge puddle of mud but a valley of badlands that were formed from a glacial meltwater channel during the Ice Age. These lie in South Western Saskatchewan as well as spilling over into northern Montana.
Castle Butte
Our first stop was at Castle Butte. This magnificent monolith stands 70 metres (230 feet) high and was a landmark in the area for the Indigenous population as well as early settlers. What is a butte you might ask? Buttes are tall, flat-topped and steep-sided towers of rock that have been formed by erosion.
Many of our group decided to climb up to the top - I attempted it but it was just too steep for me so I walked around it instead.
After a two-hour bus journey (nothing in this part of the world...)we were all eager to get out and stretch our legs. Though I started climbing the first bit (the worst of all I was told) and thought - nope don't want to stretch my legs that much!
It doesn't look bad here but I won't show you the pictures of people almost crawling up. I've never been a climber and that's quite okay with me.
The sandstone had some great formations and patterns.
The views weren't bad either!
Big Beaver
After about an hour we headed into the nearby village of Big Beaver with a population of 15!
Our first stop was Aust's General Store which has the motto "If we don't have it, you don't need it". And yes they do have a bit of everything. I bought myself a t-shirt (a weakness of mine) then got out of there as it was just too crowded for my liking.
I had a quick snoop around the flea market that was happening at the end of Main Street (one of about three streets!) and decided to head to the loo before my walk...Now isn't this cozy! Oh I could tell you a story about sharing one of these once with a total stranger but that's a story for another day. Honestly, I could write a post about toilets I've used in my lifetime! I decided to go for a bit of a walk.
No words...(bad spelling drives me crazy) The next stop on our tour was the ranch home of Tammy and Michael Burgess. Tammy is a local historian, writer and artist. While we ate our homemade (as in made in our own homes) lunches she entertained us with stories of such local outlaws as Coyote Pete and Dutch Henry who traveled back and forth between the Big Muddy and the United States doing dirty deeds such as cattle rustling (stealing). Tammy's artwork was beautiful. I very nearly bought the book she has written on the history of the area and thought "Laurie, you don't need another damn book". I regret that decision! She is an amazing woman. If you ever get a chance to hear one of her talks go for it! You will not regret it. Tammy and Michael have also won environmental awards for their ranch.
This is the gallery of her art with an adjoining area where she gives her talks.
After hearing all about the "bad guys" from Tammy it was time to go and visit
The Outlaw Caves
As I mentioned earlier the Big Muddy Valley lies in the far south of the province very close to the border with Montana. Gangs of outlaws would sell horses to homesteaders, steal them and take them across the border where they would rebrand them and move them back over the border to sell to other homesteaders. Naughty!!! And yes, the famous Butch Cassidy (c'mon I know you thought of those Paul Newman blue eyes when you read that...well I did anyway!) hung out in the Big Muddy as well, calling it "The Devil's Playground". Of course the Royal Canadian Mounted Police, then called The NorthWest Mounted Police were hot on their trail so they needed places to hideout. The caves here were perfect for that. We hopped on our trusty chariot once more and headed out to see them...
Born on Cape Breton Sam Kelly was one of the most notorious and violent of the Big Muddy outlaws. He fell in with American outlaw Frank Jones and his gang and when not rustling cattle and horses he and the gang terrorized local ranchers and robbed trains and businesses. He wasn't convicted of a single crime as witnesses tended to forget what they saw or disappear... Apparently, he only killed people in self defense....okay! He and his cohorts were the reason the North West Mounted Police established a detachment in the Big Muddy. He 'retired' in 1913 and disappeared for a while before spending the last years of his life as a farmer in northern Saskatchewan. Apparently, it was wise not to ask him what he did before he moved to the area. A few of his cronies from back in the day also moved to the area and there is a nearby lake named after him. In his later years he became paranoid that he was being followed and died in the North Battleford mental hospital in 1937.
Montana is just the other side of the hills..
The horses went in this entrance. This is just one of the caves that were occupied in the area. I assume the entrance was a bit more discreet back then!
The scenery was breathtaking. I closed my eyes and could visualize the outlaws and horses racing back over those hills.
Then it was time to head for our last stop...
Paisley Brook School
Paisley Brook School was built in 1916 and closed in 1957. This one-room school house not only provided education for the local children but acted as a venue for church services, meetings and dances!
Then it was time to head home.
What a great day this was! It was much fun that I just might do it again this year! (and this time I'll buy the book!)
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