Friday, May 19, 2017

Winchester Cathedral

Winchester Cathedral, you're bringing me dowhownnnn...love it or hate it, anyone who grew up in the 60's remembers that song.  Can you believe it was this song that led me to visit?  Yes, alterI am daft like that.  I have been wanting to visit Winchester for years now even though I didn't know much about it aside from the song and the fact it was the starting point for the South Downs Way which I intend to do some day. (just watch me!)
Rail fares in the UK are not cheap which is why I subscribe to the mailing list of every train line. When a deal came up for Great Western Railway I jumped on it.  It wasn't the ten pound return deal I got to York but it was still quite a bit cheaper than the regular fare which I certainly wasn't about to pay for a day trip.

Due to getting on the wrong train at my local station (cringe - that'll teach me not to double check where the incoming train is going) I ended up at Waterloo station with three minutes to spare.  I didn't know I could still move that fast but I did it.  No time for a quick coffee but thank goodness they have trolley service so I got my caffeine fix just as the train was leaving the outskirts of London.

Just over an hour later the train pulled into Winchester rail station to steady rain.  I have never let that stop me!  My first stop was the Great Hall which blew my mind and I will be talking about in another post.  From there I wandered along a pedestrian shopping area that sadly I never got back to.  But I will!

It was easy to find the cathedral as it was sign posted well which was a good thing as we know how easily I get lost.

And there it was...in the mist and rain....and the rain and the mist....




First a bit of background..there is 15 centuries of history behind the cathedral as Winchester was once the seat of power in Anglo Saxon and Norman royal power.  The current site of the cathedral began in the 7th century when royalty transitioned from pagan to christian.  I won't bore with details but it has gone from a Little Minster to a Cathedral and was the burial place of King Alfred the Great of Wessex amongst many others.  In 1066 when William the Conquerer arrived a Norman church was built.  The church was Roman Catholic until the dissolution of the monasteries under King Henry VIII when it became a cathedral.  The church today was mainly completed in the early 16th century.

One of the most notable things about the cathedral is that the author Jane Austin is buried here.

So enough talking, let's start exploring!

The first thing I headed for was the burial place of Jane Austen in the cathedral.  Confession time: despite being a vicarious reader I've never read one of Jane Austen's novels right through. (I've seen the movies though..does that count?)  I think it's time to do so!!!  This year is the 200th anniversary of her death (in a nearby home) so there are many celebrations planned.  So a good year as any to start reading her books right?




Above is a plaque dedicated to her memory.


One of the beautiful stained glass windows in the cathedral.



Magnificent!!!  The Nave.



Looking toward the altar.





The two pictures above are Medieval wall paintings from the 12th century.  They were uncovered in the 1960's.


The choir stalls







I saw dead people...lots of dead people!  (well their tombs anyway...) 


Bet I couldn't take a picture like this in July - something to be said for visiting on a rainy day in January.



This statue in the interior of the church is a bust of William Walker who literally saved the cathedral in the early 1900's.  Huge cracks started appearing in the walls and ceiling of the cathedral and it was in danger of collapse.  The cathedral lays on top of peaty soil with a high water table. A professional diver, Mr. Walker worked in complete darkness under water for six years six hours a day in depths of up to 20 feet  to excavate the flooded trenches placing bags of concrete in them.  When he took his lunch break he would just remove his helmet as the diving suit was too bulky and heavy to remove. Once his job was completed the ground water could be pumped out and the walls braced by bricklayers.   Below is a statue of him in the garden.



Yes, he even has a pub named after him!  I didn't make it to the pub this time but next time I am in Winchester I will definitely visit it and raise a glass of him.  What a hero!!!

I missed visiting the Crypt which has a beautiful sculpture by Antony Gormley.  The reason for this is the stairs looked too intimidating for my sore knee.  I do regret that but hope to visit again someday with my new super duper bionic knee.

Hope you enjoyed the quick visit to the cathedral.  Definitely worth a visit.  It is open every day and charges an admission fee but well worth it.  There is a lovely restaurant in the grounds (I can't vouch for the food as I was headed for the pub) and lots of eateries and pubs nearby.

































Saturday, April 22, 2017

My Knee replacement journey - one month on...

Say what?  I know you're thinking "I come here to read about travel, not a bloody knee replacement".  But it's mine...doesn't that make it special?  No?  Okay leave now and come back when I can finally sit down long enough to write a post with pretty pictures. Let's say in two weeks... Right now this is my reality.  I'm typing this in bed with my travel laptop sitting on top of my blanket - I learned the hard way not to put my laptop on my bare legs.  Ouch!

One month ago today I had the knee in my left leg replaced.  Three years ago my left leg was just a normal leg doing what legs do- taking me on wonderful walks all over the world and not complaining.  That job was done by its twin - the right leg.  That one has been a pain in the butt since 1999...yes 1999.  Starting as bursitis and turning into arthritis.  I'd take my happy pills (one ibuprofin, one aleve..I've since found out that is a BAD thing to do..) and shut that bitch up and carry on with my half marathons, hikes and 10 km walks.  It wasn't ideal but it worked.  Then in the summer of 2014 I lifted a box of instruction books at work and something in my back clicked.  Hmmm..that was uncomfortable...Then a few days later after faxing something at work I stepped back and caught my sandal on a chair in my co-worker's office.  Down I went..but not before a spectacular few feet of running backyard and landing butt first into an empty box.  That poor box never knew what hit it.  And that's when the pain all down my left side began.  Sciatica?  Nope, not according to the doctor as I could lift my leg with no problem.  To make a long story short x-rays were done and it showed that knee was bone on bone with severe arthritis.  How can that be I wondered as it had never bothered me until these two incidents - its right sister had done enough bitching for both of them.  I went to physio therapy for five months until I flew to England for six months.  I was still able to do my walking if I drugged myself up.  Half marathons were not possible but I found I could still do fairly long walks on my own at my own speed as long as I rested the next day.  Group walks became a chore and I could only manage 5 km.  Life carried on with a semblance of normality.  I was referred to an orthopedic surgeon whom I saw every six months.  Slowly the knee got worse...my cherished walks from my apartment around the lake (6.3 km) became longer as I had to sit and rest one or two times until finally I just couldn't do them anymore.  That's when I knew it was time to get something done and luckily on my visit to the surgeon in July of last year he agreed with me.  It's time Laurie he said.

I was put on a waiting list because that's how we roll here in Canada.  And that is fine with me.  I love the fact we have universal healthcare here and everyone could have access to health care.  Life went on and I decided to have one last jaunt.  The original plan for this past winter was to go to Sri Lanka (at long last) and roam around Asia.  However,those plans had to be changed as I knew I could not keep up with a tour nor be climbing temple steps, dragging luggage, etc.  So that is why I came up with having two bases - London and Malaga with a couple of short trips thrown in but still keeping the room at my base.  And you know all about that and the struggle I had some days.  I don't regret it at all - I had a wonderful time and I still have a lot to talk about on here.  Back home I carried on with my warm water aquasize three times a week which really helped.  By this time I could walk maybe 20 minutes without stopping...on a good day.

Finally..I got a phone call out of the blue.  On March 16th I was told they had made a scheduling error and there was an opening at 8 a.m. on Tuesday March 21st.  Would I take it? I sure would!  It was a busy weekend getting things ready but I am proud of the way I got things done in such a short amount of time.  People said it's lucky I had short notice as I didn't have time to worry.  Oh yeah?  I just worried three times as much as I would have done with longer notice!

Before I knew it March 21st was here and my friend Shirley drove me to the hospital at 6 a.m.  I was told to change into a hospital gown and  put into a tiny room.  My surgery was delayed by an hour due to a five year old needing emergency surgery.  Poor little thing.  So I waited another hour - trying to read and making repeated "nervous pee" trips to the bathroom  (every ten minutes!) despite not having had anything to drink for almost twelve hours.  The surgeon popped in to see me and apologized for the delay. Then the anesthesiologist stopped by and I informed him up front that I wanted to be "knocked out" as in general anesthetic.  He was cool with that although said about 80% of people opt to have a local anesthetic.  No thank you.  I do not want to hear or see anything; knock me out. I've talked to enough people and seen enough stories on the internet...nope.  So that's what he did.  Once wheeled into the operating room I remember making a joke about ER or some such thing and the mask coming over my face and zonk...next thing I remember is waking up in the recovery room.  Yep, that's how I want to do it.


When I finally came to I was in my room.  My roommate was a 100 year old woman who I never did see as a curtain separated us and I was too lazy to move it.  I certainly heard her though - wow that woman could snore.  And that's coming from someone who's pretty darn good at it herself.   I probably came to mid afternoon.  Before I knew it supper was served - shepherds pie!  Oh my was it ever good...or at least that's what I thought in my morphine induced state.  I texted people and even phoned saying that was the best shepherds pie I had ever had in my life.  When I talked to my friend Linda later she said " I knew you must still be on a morphine high to say you liked the hospital food".  Yep.  Sleep that night was pretty well nonexistant due to my noisy roommate...but hey at 100 years old she's allowed to be noisy and at least it proved she was alive! Breakfast that morning was soggy toast and jam and coffee which I thought was pretty darn good.  Yep that morphine coming in through my IV was doing a good job I'd say.  I had little or no pain due to the morphine.  The biggest pain was using  a bed pan - especially when somehow I missed it and wet the bed.  Oh yes I had some of my finest moments in the hospital...just wait it gets better.  I had a flash back to my four year old self in the hospital after getting my tonsils out and refusing to have a bed pan in my crib (the indignity of a crib).  I sat the potty on the floor and used it but the "big boys" in the next room saw me and laughed. I've never forgotten that humiliation..obviously!  I didn't do that this time you will be glad to know.  My second day saw me with 7 visitors one after the other which was fun but tiring.  The nurse wasn't best pleased as there was no time for me to get out of bed to use the commode so it was the bed pan again.  She said "most people want to rest after surgery Laurie".  Well what was I supposed to do - kick them out?   These are my friends and it was good to see them.  Two hot meals arrived that day that were surprisingly good - gotta love morphine!


The 100 year old was transferred to her home town and another new roommate arrived - this one had broken her leg coaching ringette.  She was in bad pain and cried and was quite demanding with the nurses but we did chat and got along okay.  I pulled the curtain.  As my pain was minimal I felt grateful as she was in terrible pain.   I woke up the next morning and took the lid off my breakfast plate and gagged.  I think it was supposed to be some kind of "egg" or more like an egg substitute...a pale yellow pile of goo.  Looked like something my dog would have produced after eating a loaf of pumpernickel bread. (believe me, I know what I'm talking about)  From then on I barely ate.

By now it was Thursday and I was supposed to go to my first physio session but they were too busy to see me.   I started going to the toilet on my own.  Getting in and out of the hospital bed involved sliding carefully over and cringing as my feet hit the floor. Not with pain but the feeling of a tight band around your leg...that isn't there. Something I still experience.  Getting back in was interesting as it involved sitting on the bed and sliding backwards crab style over on the bed (pushing myself with my right foot - which got quite sore and still is) while pulling my left leg with a rope.  Not exactly elegant. Getting in on the other side would have been much easier of course but there was no room for the walker.  I had visitors that day but not as many as the previous day.

Friday I had my first physio session....the nurse gave me long pants to wear so that "my junk" (such an elegant expression) wouldn't be on display while doing the exercises.  I still wasn't getting dressed - it was too much bother.  Physio was an eye opener and I could barely do anything - you want me to do WHAT???

Being in bed and on narcotics does not make for being ahem..regular.  I calculated I hadn't produced anything in five days and I am a "go everyday" kinda gal.  So I asked if I could have something to clear me out and was given a laxative.  Hours later nothing was working so I was given a suppository.  Two hours later and nothing...one of the nurses suggested warm prune juice.  Yum.  Feeling bloated and ill I held my nose and drank it.  Okay...I think that did it.

There were murmurings of me leaving on Saturday but as it turned out I was in until Monday.  It turned out to be a shitty weekend in more ways than one.  My nurse was kept busy cleaning up after me...oh yes did I mention there were no care aides on this unit.  Just nurses.  Absolutely ridiculous.  A highly trained paid professional should not be bringing you ice, changing your bed sheets or cleaning up after you.  I had to wear a diaper...yes a diaper.  I tried to put one on myself and failed so there is nothing like a male nurse putting a diaper on you.  I've had some pretty humiliating moments in my lifetime but that probably was the top one. Although thank goodness it wasn't the head nurse - he was a hotty and all my visitors sure liked him. :) Unfortunately he never came around too often.  I closed my eyes with utter embarrassment and weakly joked "it's been a long time since someone has changed my diaper".  When physio came to do exercises with me on Saturday I had to send her away as I knew trying to move around would make it worse.  Saturday was a blur - I barely ate anything and got lots of practice getting in and out of bed to the bathroom.

By Sunday I was able to do exercises and the physio therapist said I did well.  My friend Dorothy washed my hair in a hairdressing sink down the hall.  How good that felt!!!

Monday I pushed myself to bend at 80 in physio so I could leave  (and was in pain for the rest of the day) and after waiting all day for the surgeon (who is charming for a slice and dice kind of guy and not hard on the eyeballs at all....) to come and sign my prescription for Tylenol 3's I was "let loose" in the late afternoon.  My friend June came to collect me in her SUV.  I was so nervous about getting in and out but it worked out well.  She picked up my prescription and stayed overnight to make sure I would be okay.  We ordered in Vietnamese although I didn't eat much.


Since then I've coped on my own - when friends come over I get them to do odd jobs for me.  I still need someone to change the sheets on my bed as I can't get close enough to one end with my walker.  A friend who is a professional house cleaner helps me out from time to time and it's worth every penny.  Actually I don't think my place has ever looked so clean.  It's messy and reflects life with a walker but those carpets and floors are sure clean. Meals are simple but I'm now confident enough to use the oven without the fear of falling in.  Now if I could only retrieve the pizza pan that somehow slid behind the drawer..but it requires pulling out the oven and that's not going to happen.  I'm quite proud of how I have coped - yes I've had help but for 95% of the time I am on my own.

I started physio two weeks ago...4 sessions behind me and 4 to go.  It's been frustrating as my bend is bad...I am still at 86 and that was with the PT pushing it until I wanted to punch him. I said "I'm cursing you in my head" and he said 'I know I can hear you"!  My left quad flexor is weak - very weak.  I was asked how long I've had problems with my left leg..almost three years..but I've been active.  Y classes and walking.  Even though I don't walk like I did I still walk more than a lot of people as I no longer have a car and so bus or walk places. So I guess I've been favouring my right leg which makes me very very nervous...but let's not even think about that one right now.

My appetite is back..sadly.  I liked not caring whether I ate or not.  I have lost weight because of that and believe me I need to lose weight.  Loss of appetite is a side effect of the operation and drugs.  I didn't feel sick - just was not hungry.  A miracle!!! I had joined Weight Watchers in February so hope by the time I get back there next month I will at least be the same as I was if not a pound or two
lower.

I've mastered the art of having a shower on a bath chair without flooding the bathroom floor.  It took a couple of attempts but I've aced it.  I am super super careful as I don't want to fall and have to be rescued totally naked (I always try to remember to take a phone in with me)...because let's face it I'd be more upset over the naked bit than being hurt.

Things I've learned...

1)   That rubber band around your leg feeling is annoying.  You can be sitting in bed feeling all nice and cozy and normal and once you put your foot on the floor it's there.  Sometimes it's not but for me it mostly is. And I'm told it can last MONTHS.  Oh dear.

2)  Not only is it a physical journey but an emotional one.  I cry at everything.  I cry when I can't do my exercises properly and I cry when I do.  I cry reading books and I cry watching movies.  I watched "Bridget Jones's Baby" last night and cried - that's the third time I've seen it and I've never cried...I cry at things on Facebook. I cry looking at pictures of my doggie who died nearly 12 years ago.  Yes I am a sobbing wet mess.  And it's normal.

3)  You shouldn't compare yourself to others on the same journey but you do.  I wanted to slap the woman next to me at physio who was four weeks out like me but has a 113 bend.  Then I wanted to cry...but I waited until I got home.

4)  You find out who your true friends are....and oh boy I've got some wonderful friends.  Family and friends who live elsewhere have been texting daily, sending cards and presents.  Local friends have dropped by with food,given me rides where I need to go, picked up things I needed and brought sunshine into my life. My friend Dorothy has been a true life saver.  She has had this operation herself and is my mentor.  She calls me daily, has helped me with my exercises, picked things up and loaned me "toys" to do exercises with.  I am so lucky. I hope I can mentor someone else who has this operation.

5)  I've found out what loneliness feels like. A month of not going anywhere but to physio sessions can do that to you.  As I mentioned I have friends visit which is fun but I miss being out in the world...  I haven't eaten out in over a month...I can't even remember when that last happened.  The 60's???  See #6 for the main reason.

6)  Sitting is uncomfortable...half an hour of sitting is more than enough and when I get up I can barely move.  So that means no coffee or meals out right now even if I could get into places with my clunky walker.

7)  The healing process can take up to a year.  And your knee will never be the same as your old knee. Okay maybe for some but for the majority..no.  The fact I will never be able to run or ski does not bother me at all..the fact that I may not have the same flexibility does.  All I can do is work on it and be patient.

8)  Icing your knee feels good.  I've never enjoyed icing my body parts until now...now it's "when can I ice again".  Of course I would LOVE to have a warm heating pad on but at this stage that is not a good idea.

9)  Your energy will be minimal for the first few weeks.  After showering and dressing I was ready to head back to bed. Slowly it's coming back although please don't come to visit after a physio therapy session.

10)  In the end it will be the best thing I have done for my body..well okay...that's a lie.  But it's something I anticipate that I won't regret.  (please!!!) Even at this stage I don't regret having it.  I still have a long hard road ahead of me before the semblance of a normal life appears.  But I am healthy and I am strong.  I'm not battling cancer.  I will emerge stronger than ever.  I can do this!!


Saturday, March 18, 2017

Getting myself fixed up for more adventures

As you probably know from reading my blog I have issues with my knees - namely osteoarthritis.   Both knees are bone on bone but the left one is the "bitchy" one.  I have been on the waiting list for a knee replacement since late last summer.  I had figured it would be sometime in the May/June timeframe from my (too frequent) emails to inquire how much longer. (yes I am impatient!).  Well this past Thursday the 16th of March I was called and asked if I wanted to take an opening on Tuesday March 21st.  Yes please!  So the past couple of days have been crazy with a a pre-surgery assessment and racing around stocking up on supplies I will need for the next couple of months.

I've joined a couple of Knee Replacement Support groups and quickly learned to scroll quickly past pictures of people's incisions and scars before I was sick all over the keyboard or phone.  Trust me, you won't be seeing any of that anywhere from me.  What's with people?  Geesh!  I have learned there is a lot of pain involved which has me terrified as I could never be accused of being brave...well not when it comes to pain anyway.  Hop a plane to anywhere in the world on my own...no problem!

So no more blogs for a while my friends.  Once I can sit for any length of time at a computer and actually focus (I hear the drugs are good at least and I will be in la la land for a while) I will start writing again.

There will be pain and tears ahead of me but a sparkly rainbow at the end.  Hello Chicago in October (and by then hopefully I can do short walks in more state capitals in the midwest!) and nice to meet you Dubai, Sri Lanka, South India and MORE next winter.  THAT is what is going to keep me working hard on doing my exercises.  I'm told the key is exercising, listening to what the doctor and physiotherapists say as well as rest AND taking painkillers when you need them.  (no problem there!) I am fortunate to have a great bunch of friends locally who have my back on this and are willing to help out when I need them.  I am an independent gal (in case you hadn't noticed) but I am already learning that I need to ask for help now and again.

I'll be back here soon!!!

And hopefully back on the Thames Path next year...35 miles down and only 145 to go!


Monday, March 6, 2017

Seville - the last 24 hours

Here I am two months later telling you about the last part of my time in Seville.  Honestly people, I never thought it would take this long!   I wrote about my first 24 hours and then the middle bit so now I need to finish the story.

I ended the last post with me going for Tapas the evening of January 4th....here is what I had.


Spinach with garlic, Shrimp coquettes and mushrooms grilled with shrimp on cream cheese.  It was delish!  I sat outside (of course) just outside the Barrio de Santa Cruz area. (which I will be writing about in another blog post)

Previous to the meal I had wandered around the the afore mentioned area which was on the doorstep of my hotel.  I loved the narrow winding streets where you never knew what to expect around the corner.

Back to my room to watch "Marcella" on Netflix on my phone (my laptop stayed in Malaga)...yes it was that kind of " I am exhausted and can't focus enough to do anything but watch TV" evening.

The next morning I headed back to my favourite place to have breakfast.  I have learned my lesson on wandering around trying to find the perfect place for breakfast while getting hungrier and crankier with my "I NEED CAFFEINE" headache.  This morning I had an omelet with ham and cheese on top.  Different to have it on top and not in the middle but all part of the experience.  I sipped my cafe con leche and caught up on my journal. (which is how I remember these details!)  I happily listened to the Cathedral bells chiming knowing I would be visiting later.

I then started walking over to the Divino Salvador church in the central area of Seville.  There was a method to my madness. Standing in line does not make my knee happy and I discovered that a combination ticket to see both the Salvador church and the cathedral could be purchased thereby skipping lines at the cathedral.  Works for me!



I loved the narrow walkways over to the Centro area.


Seville is Flamenco!  I didn't see a flamenco show when I was there as I had seen one in Malaga and I was usually too tired to do much but collapse at the end of the day.  If there is a "next time" in Seville I will make sure I see one.

I got to the church much too early (it didn't open until 11 a.m.) so wandered around the back.




I love unique doors and loved this one on one of the buildings in the square behind the church.

The area around the church was full of religious shops selling First Communion clothes as well as clothing and shoes for Flamenco dancing.



I stopped in a nearby coffee shop to sit down and order another cafe con leche as it still wasn't time for the church to open.

Welcome to Church of the Divine Salvador.  It was built between 1674 and 1712 on the site of a former mosque.  It is very impressive on the outside.  The inside?  Well I'll leave it up to you to decide!  I bought my combination ticket to this church and the cathedral and was informed that the cathedral was closing early today at 1.  Say what??  So that certainly put the pressure on.  I probably spent less than fifteen minutes at this church when I likely would have spent longer but I had less than two hours to see both places and I knew the cathedral was immense.














While some of it was beautiful to me (the columns and ceiling) and a couple of the sculptures were beautiful I found it way too over the top for my liking.  And that's all I will say on the matter...

I then retraced my footsteps back over to the Cathedral area.


As you can see the Cathedral is immense.   Seville Cathedral is one of the largest churches in the world.  It sits on the site of the 12th century Almohad Mosque and when Seville fell to the Christians in 1248 the mosque was used as a church.  The mosque's minaret (now called Giralda tower) still sits beside it.  Due to the bad condition of the church, in the early 15th century the church decided to knock down the building and construct a new one.  Legend has it that the famous quote to begin building was "Let's construct a church so large that future generations will think we were mad". It was completed in 1502 after 100 years of hard labour.

Walking in you are overwhelmed with how huge this place is, I've never seen anything like it.










 The Capilla Mayor - supposedly the largest alter piece in the world.   It has over 1000 carvings of biblical figures.


And...(drum roll please!) the highlight of the visit for me was the supposed tomb of Christopher Columbus.  Although it could be his son Diego...whatever for me it was a highlight.  Okay now I know they are saying Columbus was not the hero we thought he was but I grew up hearing "In 1492 Columbus sailed the ocean blue" so for me it was a thrill to think that this man's bones were here right in front of me.




The Patio de los Naranjos outside the Cathedral  - it's planted with 60 Naranjos (orange) trees.




The Giralda tower is on the left.  Despite it being ramps to go up most of the way my knee was sore and I knew it would not like it.

I then wandered around the centro (central) area of Seville a bit...


Meet the Metropol Parasol - the largest wooden structure in the world.  Regret:  I was too tired to walk over and go on the escalator to explore further.  When I saw this I had no clue what it was - just that it looked pretty bizarre!


Loved this statue of a Flamenco dancer.

And then it was time for the last tapas in Seville!  Paella and chicken.   Need I add I couldn't finish the chicken?



Then it was time to head back to the hotel, collect my luggage and go and find a taxi to take me to the train station.  What a great 72 hours I had in Seville and it is another city that has stolen my heart. Will I return some day?  Who knows!  There are a lot of other places I want to visit first.

I stayed at the Hotel Goya.  I would recommend it as a great place to stay because it's so close to the centre yet on a fairly quiet street and is very reasonable.  I was at the back however and there is a bar next door so not sure how loud a room at the front would be.  My rate through hotels.com was 40 euros a night.  I had a view of a garbage and another building but that doesn't bother me if it is quiet!  The room was clean with a private bathroom of course.  Downside?  There were not enough power outlets.   I am going to solve this problem by getting a multi-plug travel adaptor before my next big trip so this will never be a problem again.