An Easter Sunday walk around Rottingdean

Where the heck is Rottingdean and what's with the weird name I can hear you ask.   Good question. Rottingdean is a short distance outside of Brighton on the south coast of England in the county of East Sussex.  East Sussex is one of my favourite areas of the country.  Rottingdean is a weird name for sure - it actually means "Valley of Rota's people" and has been around since Saxon times. 

How the heck did I end up here?  After arriving back into Portsmouth from my week on the Channel Island of Guernsey I needed a place to stay for two nights before my flight to Budapest from Gatwick airport. It was also Easter weekend which meant crowds.  For obvious reasons I wanted somewhere close to Gatwick airport but not in London - I wanted somewhere different. With Gatwick airport a half hour train ride away, Brighton seemed the logical choice but I have been there loads of times.  I started searching Airbnb's around the area and my eyes fell upon one in Rottingdean. Of course, life would have been less complicated if I had booked a place in Brighton but I have never done things the easy way so why start now. So I hit the "book" button on what looked and turned out to be a charming house with an equally charming host - and her dog!  

Settling in 

After a rainy day in Portsmouth exploring the Mary Rose museum (another post coming on that...wow!) I got the train to Brighton in the late afternoon.  There was a bus stand right outside the station so off I went - there are many buses (mostly double decker) that roll along that stretch of road on the southern coast so accessibility to Rottingdean is no problem whatsoever.  I wandered along the High St.gawking at the beautiful homes until I came to the right address.  Katherine and Lily, the dog were both welcoming and I loved my cozy room.  A comfy bed, a TV, a tea kettle with tea bags, lovely prints on the wall and books - my kind of place! 

It's always a bonus when my hosts have a dog..but can you believe I took no photos of Lily.  Well, it was such a short visit I didn't get too much time to spend with Katherine OR Lily although we did sit down for a short chat. (Katherine and I that is!)   The only downside?  The bathroom had a fiddly lock and yes I did lock myself in - if you are a regular reader of this blog you know I am good at locking myself in places. Luckily her full-time lodger rescued me - he said the same thing happened to him.  I was very cautious after that!  After being up all night on the ferry and walking around Portsmouth I was exhausted so I ate a sandwich I had picked up at the train station and read for a bit before nodding off. 

Happy Easter! 

Katherine had left a couple of little Easter treats in the room for me so I hoovered those babies down with a cup of coffee almost as soon as I woke up as I was hungry.  I wasn't sure what was open on Easter Sunday - I needn't have worried!  While Rottingdean is a very old traditional village it is a touristy place so has many restaurant and pubs and most were open. 

Being a lover of the ocean I immediately headed over in the direction of the seafront but my tummy got seduced by the smell of a good old fry up in the Dean Cafe.  I ordered the "Mean Dean" - no pictures, sorry but it was a good one!  I knew it would keep me going all day which is what I wanted as I planned to walk!!!  

First off I did a "shortish" walk along the Undercliff path which runs from Black Rock to Saltdean.  

There was a cafe here which I didn't know about so at first I thought "oh damn, should have come here" but then I realized it was packed and I loved the quiet little cafe I had my breakfast in.  

Then it was time to head over to the heart of the village...I had a snoop in St Margaret's Church where people were busy getting ready for the Easter service.  One of the fellows invited me in and the bustling church ladies gave me sideways disapproving glances as I definitely was not in my Easter finery.  St Margaret's Church was originally built during the Saxon era with a tower being added by the Normans.  

In Rudyard Kipling's footsteps

Yes, Rudyard Kipling used to live in Rottingdean!   I visited his home while I was in the UK two years ago.  He was such an interesting man.  Recently I watched "My Boy Jack" on Britibox which was about the relationship between him and his son Jack and it was excellent!  

Kipling and his family stayed in this house with his aunt and uncle.  The left house is called Prospect Cottage and is adjoined to Aubrey House in the middle.  His son John (Jack) was born here.  You can see the blue plaque on the house. 

The family then moved over to rent the nearby house called The Elms.  While living in the village Kipling wrote such classics as Kim and The Just So Stories.  

Then I headed over to the Village Green and pond.  

The village grew around this area as the pond provided the only source of drinking water during Neolithic and Saxon times. 

Kipling Gardens was formerly within the grounds of The Elms and has now been made into a park that is open to the public every day.  I loved it.  The birdhouse was too cute! 

A woman was standing anxiously by this tree.  Every Easter Sunday she decorates it and hides eggs around the garden for her grandchildren.  It is an Easter tradition for her family - love it!!!  

A walk around the Village 

I then wandered willy-nilly around Rottingdean - no map, I just followed my nose and referred to a brochure I had with information on some of the features of the village on it.

I loved the old homes along the High Street. (which is where my Airbnb was located also)  Token dog(s) photo! 

Above is Our Lady of Lourdes Church which was consecrated in 1958. 

I guess we can guess how they came up with that name!! 

Lots of pubs and lots of Sunday lunches - the problem being thanks to my big fried breakfast I wasn't in the slightest bit hungry and even if I had been, the pubs were heaving!!! 

Up to The Windmill

I then made my way up a hilly side road to the Beacon Hill Nature Reserve. 

Entering the Nature Reserve I saw these crazy Scarecrows.  Leftovers from Hallowe'en? 

I loved this view looking back to Rottingdean.....

Here is The Windmill on top of the hill.  Its formal name is the Beacon Windmill and it was built in 1802.  Fun facts:  a human skeleton was found while digging the foundations of this windmill and it was a working mill until 1881. Over the years it has become derelict and then refurbished - several times.  It is an iconic sight along the coast - and who can resist an ancient village by the sea with charm AND a windmill?  I know I can't! 

Yes, I planted my a** on that bench and gazed at the windmill and the surrounding landscape and daydreamed about winning millions in the lottery and buying a house here.  Certainly, a dream as I never buy lottery tickets!  

Time to head back to the room for a wee rest....

When I return to Rottingdean someday I will have to come here for a meal - or try to! FYI, it was closed when I passed by!!! 

After a cup of tea in my room and a rest, it was time to head back to the coast...all of three blocks away from my Airbnb.  I stopped off at an ice cream stand and ordered a homemade marmalade ice cream.  It was good! Honest!  Chocolate, a fried breakfast and ice cream in one day...when you put it like that it does sound bad doesn't 't it.  Ah well, it was Easter! 

Yes, they are sitting on a rocky beach on a coolish day.....no comment......:)  

I walked along the coastal path for a very short distance admiring the views. 

Rottingdean was a busy little place on Easter Sunday with traffic roaring through.  When I go back someday it will be midweek when it is quieter.  Although that means missing out on a Sunday roast....hmm....

Time to get back to the room to rest up as I have to be up early to catch my flight to Budapest in the morning!!!   

Rottingdean was a charming village and I am so glad I was able to spend some time here.  Highly recommended for a visit if you are in the area. With excellent public transit I would definitely stay here instead of busier Brighton.