Last year when my friend June told me she was organizing a "friends" trip to Newfoundland my first reaction was "oh wouldn't that be nice but I can't possibly afford it". Then I realized if I don't do it now when would I do it? So that's how I found myself back on the road less than two weeks after my four and a half month trip. Being sane is highly overrated.
I am so happy I did this trip ..I had a blast. I have been to Newfoundland twice previously but had never gone further north than Bonavista so most of what I saw was entirely new to me.
Icebergs!
Early June is prime iceberg season. Not only did we take a boat out to view a large iceberg from Twillingate but we saw a couple of big guys from shore and "clumpers" which are broken pieces of the bergs. I had seen icebergs on a previous trip ten years ago in Bulls Bay but never so many as on this trip!
We saw these "clumpers" (also known as "growlers") which are pieces of larger icebergs on the west coast on our way up to St Anthony. There were larger bergs further out.
The above photo was taken from the shore with my Lumix point and shoot zoom lens pushed to the max.
Then it was time to get on a boat and see some big guys! As it turned out we only saw one big one on our trip out from Twillingate but it was quite the sight! Our boat circled around the berg and with every turn it looked completely different. And the colours were beautiful!!
Ice taken from the berg...some had it in drinks and some of us just sucked on it. It was so pure and clean.
This iceberg was off the coast of Bonavista - see how big it is compared to the tour boat circling it.
We saw these "clumpers" (also known as "growlers") which are pieces of larger icebergs on the west coast on our way up to St Anthony. There were larger bergs further out.
The above photo was taken from the shore with my Lumix point and shoot zoom lens pushed to the max.
Then it was time to get on a boat and see some big guys! As it turned out we only saw one big one on our trip out from Twillingate but it was quite the sight! Our boat circled around the berg and with every turn it looked completely different. And the colours were beautiful!!
Ice taken from the berg...some had it in drinks and some of us just sucked on it. It was so pure and clean.
This iceberg was off the coast of Bonavista - see how big it is compared to the tour boat circling it.
Puffins, Puffins, Puffins!!!
I have seen puffins before but this was the closest I have ever been. Puffins spend most of the year at sea but for approximately four months a year (usually May to September) they mate and nest on land. Elliston (formerly known as Bird Island Cove) has the closest land view of puffins in North America. All I can say is that it was absolutely amazing to be so close to these adorable seabirds. I was able to use my travel companions' binoculars for a closer view as well as my own zoom lens. What can I say...puffins are friggin' adorable! I was in absolute heaven.
Looking towards Bird Rock where the puffins nest.
Looking towards Bird Rock where the puffins nest.
These were taken with a zoom lens of course.
Puffins build burrows to shelter and rear their young - usually only one egg is laid. Puffins live up to twenty years and mate for life.
Seeing big four legged critters!
We saw three moose. One ran across the highway behind us...whew. Running into a moose on a road in Newfoundland is no joke and usually involves a one way trip to the morgue. It is a constant danger and there are signs posted along the highway saying as much. Moose aren't native to Newfoundland and with few natural predators they have thrived and there are upwards of 100,000 moose on the island Third time lucky I would say - on my two previous visits I didn't see any.
We saw caribou as well - a mama and baby and an impressive fellow with horns who just would not look at me for a picture (jerk!) but at least posed in front of an impressive backdrop.
As a huge animal lover, it was overwhelming to see these beautiful creatures.
Not too far into the walk we were able to view Sea stacks.
What a view!
There were benches along the route - my behind was planted on one as I took this picture.
My wonderful help mate waiting to help me on the high steps.
Another great view!
And off we go! It was a 3 km walk each way to get to the boat launch so we got our exercise. It was raining on the way back so I broke all personal speed records getting back to the vehicle!
Entrance into the fjord
And the first waterfall...
What a view!
Not a fan of beer normally but I found one I like - Iceberg beer. And no, it's not green. That is the iceberg punch beside it - taken as a back up in case I didn't like the beer!
Of course I had to have the Jiggs Dinner - salted beef (tasted like ham), cabbage, carrots, turnip, mashed potatoes, dumpling, peas mash and mustard relish. Yum! Not something I would want too often but I did enjoy it. (and later in the trip I had Jiggs dinner pot pie!)
June and I got screeched in a second time at the end of our Iceberg boat trip in Twillingate. No cod this time but a plush puffin!!! But we did get to wear a Newfie rain slicker hat!
We saw caribou as well - a mama and baby and an impressive fellow with horns who just would not look at me for a picture (jerk!) but at least posed in front of an impressive backdrop.
As a huge animal lover, it was overwhelming to see these beautiful creatures.
Vikings!
I am a bit obsessed with Vikings. The major thing that sold me on this trip was the fact we would be visiting L'Anse Aux Meadows which is the site of a One thousand-year-old Viking settlement. This was set up as an encampment for ventures further into what they called Vinland...their excursions reached as far as the east coast of New Brunswick. When the cost of operating the Vinland enterprise was not sustainable for its returns they left. In 1960 a Norwegian explorer and writer visited some overgrown ruins that a local fisherman took her to and she discovered they were Viking ruins. It is now a World Heritage Site. Remains of the buildings have been marked off as well as recreations of a few buildings.
Replica of a Large Hall. This was the most "friendly" building to visit as there was a fire going (because it was a cold day) and a woman dressed in costume who told us stories of the Vikings.
The indented places are where the remains of original buildings are.
"The gang's all here". The full group of us listening to tales of the Vikings inside one of the reconstructed buildings. A fellow from Germany told us all about a place in north Germany that has Viking artifacts. Have to put that place on "the list"!
Replica of a Large Hall. This was the most "friendly" building to visit as there was a fire going (because it was a cold day) and a woman dressed in costume who told us stories of the Vikings.
The indented places are where the remains of original buildings are.
"The gang's all here". The full group of us listening to tales of the Vikings inside one of the reconstructed buildings. A fellow from Germany told us all about a place in north Germany that has Viking artifacts. Have to put that place on "the list"!
The Skerwink Trail
The 5.3 km Skerwink Trail renowned for its beauty, is one of the premier walking trails in the world. Skerwink is a local name for the shearwater bird. As the walk is rated moderate to difficult I got myself into quite a state over whether I should do it or not. I was afraid I would be left way behind the others as I am a slow walker. June said to me "I know you can do it Laurie" and I did! As it turned out with Marie and June's help on the steeper steps (one at the front and one at the back) I was able to do it and lived to tell the tale. I will definitely be writing a post on this walk - it was a beauty. We walked it on a cool cloudy windy day - I can only imagine what it must be like on a sunny summer day.
Not too far into the walk we were able to view Sea stacks.
What a view!
There were benches along the route - my behind was planted on one as I took this picture.
My wonderful help mate waiting to help me on the high steps.
Another great view!
The stairs were relentless at times but the trail is well maintained. They advise not to walk in ice and snow and I can see why. I am so happy I did it - guess you can tell in the following photo!
A boat trip in Gros Morne National Park
We also went on a boat trip on Western Brook Pond in Gros Morne National Park. It was a cold windy day and we sat up top - I was glad of the long underwear! What fantastic views we had of the fjords though and it was totally worth it.
And off we go! It was a 3 km walk each way to get to the boat launch so we got our exercise. It was raining on the way back so I broke all personal speed records getting back to the vehicle!
Entrance into the fjord
And the first waterfall...
What a view!
Pissing Mare Falls - yep, that's its name!
It was a cold boat ride - no doubt about that. However it was totally worth it!
Getting screeched in...twice!
Can you believe on my third trip to Newfoundland I finally got screeched in as an honorary Newfoundlander - twice! The first time was at the Legion in St Anthony. While purchasing an item in the gift shop at St Anthony Lighthouse the cashier mentioned that there was a "Scoff" at the Canadian Legion that evening. The Iceberg Festival was taking place in St Anthony and this was one of the events. A "scoff" means a meal and that it was. There was the option of a Jiggs Dinner (what's that you ask? Hold your horses, I am coming to that!), fish and chips, fisherman's platter (shrimp, scallops, cod..you name it) and more. There was a duo playing Newfie tunes and to top it off we got screeched in.
Not a fan of beer normally but I found one I like - Iceberg beer. And no, it's not green. That is the iceberg punch beside it - taken as a back up in case I didn't like the beer!
Of course I had to have the Jiggs Dinner - salted beef (tasted like ham), cabbage, carrots, turnip, mashed potatoes, dumpling, peas mash and mustard relish. Yum! Not something I would want too often but I did enjoy it. (and later in the trip I had Jiggs dinner pot pie!)
All of us (and there were quite a few) sat in a circle, ate a cube of bologna and something else I can't remember....then we all recited a couple of Newfie phrases together and one by one we went up and gave the frozen cod a compliment (such as "you're the sexiest thing in here") and then kissed it. He was a bit of a cold fish. (cough, cough) Last but not least we all had a shot of Screech - the strong dark Jamaican rum that Newfoundland is famous for. (a bottle came home with me - I do love rum!)
All screeched in as honorary Newfies! This was such a fun evening - something I will always remember.
June and I got screeched in a second time at the end of our Iceberg boat trip in Twillingate. No cod this time but a plush puffin!!! But we did get to wear a Newfie rain slicker hat!
My travel companions
The other five ladies were lots of fun and there was no falling out - we all got along really well. Whether it was jokes in the van, wine in the evenings (EVERY evening!) or two nights out on George Street, we had lots of laughs. A few of the photos on this blog were taken by one or more of the other ladies - another bonus of traveling with more than one companion!
So cheers to my travel buddies...Marie, Mirta. Diane and Judy and a special big THANKYOU to June who organized the trip and drove us all over the place. I felt totally safe with her at the wheel. She has a travel company Treadon Travel so check out her Facebook page.
We did so much in that 11 days The picnic at Ferryland (picture above), seeing the crazy play Ed and Ed: Trapped in Cow Head, enjoying an evening of music and food (lobster) in Twillingate, walking around St John's (definitely a post on that), our two nights on George St listening to fabulous music, the walk at Tablelands in Gros Morne National Park, talking with the locals who are amazing, having a wine tasting at Auk Island Winery and ordering wine to be sent home and so much more.
Now that I've ticked all the boxes off for what I wanted to do and see in Newfoundland I doubt I will be back - but as I've learned never say never!
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