If you would have told me even a year ago that I would be traveling to India on my own I would have said you were nuts. However, as I have learned...never say never. Cochin is a city of just over 600,000 inhabitants and is more commonly known with its Indian name of Kochi. Kochi is the second most populous city in the coastal state of Kerala in India's far south. South India is somewhere I have wanted to visit for a long time. After the busy Sri Lankan tour I needed some downtime in a place that was interesting that I could explore at my leisure. Being only an hour away by plane from Sri Lanka, Kerala seemed the ideal spot. I decided to make it simple and have one base where I could take a couple of day trips and just relax when needed. Fort Kochi, a small historical enclave of Kochi seemed like a good fit for an eight-day stay.
I was smart and had a "soft landing" with a pre-booked taxi to take me to my homestay - I had a female driver too! (that part wasn't planned but was considerate on Joseph's part) True confession time: I was a bit nervous even though I had read that the south of India is much more laid back than the north. (TRUTH!)
As it turned out I had no reason to be nervous. Scruffy dusty little Fort Kochi wormed its way into my heart and I want to share why. Pour a drink of your choice and settle in - this is going to be a long one!
When I heard about the Pod Cochin Homestay I decided I had to stay there and booked it months before. I read wonderful reviews of how helpful the hosts Joseph and Jennifer were - and they most certainly were. It was just opened in 2015 so everything was spotless and new. The homestay was close to everything as well. I loved my time there and would highly recommend it.
The balcony was a communal one but truth be told I never used it. I was out and about during the day and was happy to come back to my room, turn the air conditioning on full blast and relax in the cool air! Yes even in late February/early March the temperature was around 40C with the humidity. When I return someday I will go in January/early February which coincidentally is the time I visited the North of India in 2007.
Joseph and Jennifer lived on the main floor. There were two other rooms beside mine. When I realized how hot it was going to be I quickly "upgraded" to an air-conditioned room rather than a fan - two dollars more a day and Joseph handed me the remote control for the air conditioning unit that was in my room already! It was totally worth every penny of that two dollars and more!!
Okay maybe I should have shown you a pristine room (right after I walked into it for the first time) but this was taken as I was packing up the night before I left. This is how I roll.
Why am I posting a picture of a bathroom? This is a wet room type bathroom - no separate shower. You just turn on the shower and the water runs all over the floor. There is drainage in the corner. This is common in homes and a lot of guest houses and smaller hotels in Asia. If you stay in more expensive hotels you would never see this. The shower head is almost at the ceiling. You do have the option of washing in the bucket as well. Or having the water go into the bucket (although that doesn't always work too well) and dumping it. All an experience. The floor was slip proof which was a huge relief. Falling is one thing but falling down and breaking something when you are naked..oh the humiliation...
The homestay was down a somewhat quiet lane. My room was not facing any traffic so the only thing that woke me was either barking dogs or roosters in the morning. A sweet little girl in that pinkish house would greet me most times when I came "home" but I never managed to get a photo of her. I found everyone friendly and helpful.
So let's head out and get some breakfast...
The "chai" stand on the main road in front of my homestay. In the morning I want COFFEE so unfortunately I never got to have some there. I do love masala chai. Hint: I hear people saying "chai tea"...no no...that is like saying "tea tea". It's chai (tea) or better yet masala (the spice) chai...now you know. (you're welcome)
Lots of electrical wire, etc. all over the place and let's not talk about the state of the sidewalks. You certainly need your wits about you when walking here. But hey, they have sidewalks no matter what state they are in so it's all good.
Yep, those are goats you see happily trotting along in traffic. Goats are to South India what cows are to North India.
They roam in gangs...
The kiddos heading for school - either on the back of dad's motorbike or walking. I approve of school uniforms. None of this "my clothes are better than yours" malarky. I wore one for three years and lived to tell the tale. (I am sure my parents, if they were alive could tell a different tale about my reaction to wearing a uniform in my early teen years)
As breakfast wasn't provided at my homestay (at $27 Cdn a night I really couldn't complain!) I chose a different place each morning for breakfast...hmmm..what will it be today? Let's go traditional..a dosa (pancake) with bread. Traditional but I was hungry an hour later...this was a one off....there was lots of selection of places to eat so I chose somewhere different every day.
After breakfast (and coffee!) let's go over to see the Chinese fishing nets. These are operated by a team of around six men. The net is balanced so the weight of one man walking to the end is sufficient for the net to be immersed in the water. It is left a few minutes before being raised by a team of five at the other end. It has become a tourist attraction and I was constantly beckoned over to the net for a "photo op" which would cost me. I took my pictures from the walkway.
It is fascinating to watch how these gigantic contraptions work. Truth be told, I stopped by every day I was in Fort Kochi to watch them.
Then there were the regular fishermen and their wares...
You could buy the seafood and have a local restaurant cook it if you wished. I didn't do this. Maybe nex time.
Time to do a bit of wandering and see some of the street art...
At home I am not much of a shopper but when I travel I do like to pick up the odd gift for friends and little reminders of special places for my home. Fort Kochi could never be accused of being a shoppers paradise unless you want to buy a sari. (now Mattancherry - another part of Kochi was a different story...) Wandering the streets was fun though.
Token dog photo - don't you worry there will be a separate post on the dogs of Fort Kochi
Time to go and get a cold drink and something to eat. Okay let's get real...what I really did was go back to my room, switch the a/c on and lay on my bed. It was hot! But you certainly don't want to see that sight so let's pretend I went to the cafe (which I did before I rested) and had something to eat.
Lemonade and chocolate cake - decadent enough for you? (my kind of lunch!) And as you can see I wrote in my journal. This was a daily ritual and one I like to follow on all my trips...afternoon tea or coffee somewhere to sit and write in my journal. There are so many beautifully decorated modern coffee shops in Fort Kochi (this was taken at the Loafers cafe) and I would try to go to a new one every day - although the Kashi Art Cafe got me in there twice for their absolutely delicious honey ginger lemonades.
It's time now for some more exploring.
Clothes, incense...I can't stand the smell of incense (another sad side effect of old age) so avoid those shops like the plague.
Here are my buddies...I would try to bring them ice cold water most days. Trouble was I couldn't find a proper dog dish so had to buy cheap containers which would leak. Ah well. Don't feel too sorry for them as they turned down my offer of food...they are well fed by the local shopkeepers. I saw none of the heartbreaking starving dogs that were deeply upsetting to me on my previous visit to North India. And yes I know that is terrible to say when there were people starving as well. Trust me, I got told off (by a tourist no less) for feeding stray dogs "when people in this country are starving". I guess it's official...I like dogs better than most people. (TRUTH) Anyway, in the heat of the day they welcomed ice cold water.
They sell everything on the sea promenade!
I think it's time to head for the beach!
Lots of freighters go past Fort Kochi into Kochi harbour....
I watched this fisherman for ages - there were usually two or three out in the water. They never seemed to catch much.
To me this was a bizarre sight but hey, it's India.
Selfie time! Teenagers are teenagers all over the world. They were so beautifully dressed I am sure it was a special occasion.
All sorts of snack vendors were set up along the sea promenade...
I'm getting knackered so it's time for a sit-down...SERIOUSLY MATE?
I thought about sitting beside the goat on the bench just so I could say that I sat on a bench with a goat..you know...if it ever came up in dinner conversation. But decided nah...and carried on. On the way back I saw an immaculately dressed young man sitting where the goat had been and I was so tempted to tell him there was a goat sitting there a few minutes ago and see his reaction. (yes, I am evil) Obviously though, those goats have probably made themselves at home on all the benches along the promenade so I am sure my butt has been planted where many a goat's butt has been as well.
These school kids were having the time of their lives in the water.
Time to head back to the room to get ready for an early dinner...but let's take the slow way back...
St Francis church is the oldest European church in India. It was originally built by the Portuguese in 1504 as a Roman Catholic church. It changed to Protestant when the Dutch captured Kochi in 1663. In 1795 the British took over Kochi but left the church in Dutch control until it was handed over in 1804 when it became an Anglican church and took on the name St Francis. Previous names were St Bartholomew and St Anthony. In 1923 it was declared a protected monument by the Archeological Survey of India. If those walls could talk!!!
Long post...so more than one token dog photo. I mean c'mon...how cute is this?
More goats. They were everywhere!
One of the prettier places in the town...these two little kids were dressed up for something special.
This is a hotel/restaurant although I never visited it - looked too posh for the likes of me.
This must have been a grand house in its day.
Almost back! Here is the Santa Cruz Basilica. Originally built by the Portuguese, it was spared by the Dutch who destroyed many Catholic buildings. The British demolished the building in 1887 and commisioned a new one. It was proclaimed a Basilica in 1984. (before that it was a cathedral)
There was an elephant festival going on the first few days while I was there. I didn't like seeing the elephants in chains and neither did other westerners I talked to. And that's all I will say about it.
Back for a quick change and wash up and it's off for a meal.
I'm just a cow.... grazing in a sports field...asking the ball not to hit me.
Chicken curry with rice
Deep fried bananas with honey and ice cream!
A quick trip to the beach to see the sunset....
Not bad but being from the prairies and the best sunsets in the world it didn't make me swoon.
Time to head over to see a performance of traditional dance at the Kathakali Centre which was a three minute walk from my homestay. (okay you realize this is a "perfect day" and doesn't reflect something I actually did all in one day right? I would have to be superwoman!)
The floor was stenciled with this beautiful design while we were there. Can you believe someone walked through it to take a close up picture of the makeup application - we were all appalled (insert gasping noises) and she realized her mistake on the way back and walked carefully around the stencils but seriously! How rude! (but at least she did it to take pictures with her real camera and not her phone - now that would have been unforgivable!)
As you can see the makeup is detailed (and it's all men) and it really was an amazing performance as well. Kathakali as it is now dates from the 17th century but its roots go further back to religious performances in the first millennium.
I thoroughly enjoyed the performance which basically revolved around a demon changing himself into a beautiful woman as he/she has fallen in love with a handsome prince. Of course, the handsome prince realizes she is a demon (as she "tries to make loves to him" I am quoting from the program here and it includes the "s") and kills him/her. I think the demons were actually brother/sister. Anyway.... I guess you had to be there but it was great. And I'd do it again! But I'd skip the makeup part. I saw the narrator walking into the theatre the next morning so was able to tell him how much I enjoyed the show.
And that is my perfect day in Fort Kochi! Just writing about it makes me want to go back someday as there are still things I didn't do. I'll be writing more about India in the coming months so stay tuned!
I was smart and had a "soft landing" with a pre-booked taxi to take me to my homestay - I had a female driver too! (that part wasn't planned but was considerate on Joseph's part) True confession time: I was a bit nervous even though I had read that the south of India is much more laid back than the north. (TRUTH!)
As it turned out I had no reason to be nervous. Scruffy dusty little Fort Kochi wormed its way into my heart and I want to share why. Pour a drink of your choice and settle in - this is going to be a long one!
When I heard about the Pod Cochin Homestay I decided I had to stay there and booked it months before. I read wonderful reviews of how helpful the hosts Joseph and Jennifer were - and they most certainly were. It was just opened in 2015 so everything was spotless and new. The homestay was close to everything as well. I loved my time there and would highly recommend it.
The balcony was a communal one but truth be told I never used it. I was out and about during the day and was happy to come back to my room, turn the air conditioning on full blast and relax in the cool air! Yes even in late February/early March the temperature was around 40C with the humidity. When I return someday I will go in January/early February which coincidentally is the time I visited the North of India in 2007.
Joseph and Jennifer lived on the main floor. There were two other rooms beside mine. When I realized how hot it was going to be I quickly "upgraded" to an air-conditioned room rather than a fan - two dollars more a day and Joseph handed me the remote control for the air conditioning unit that was in my room already! It was totally worth every penny of that two dollars and more!!
Okay maybe I should have shown you a pristine room (right after I walked into it for the first time) but this was taken as I was packing up the night before I left. This is how I roll.
Why am I posting a picture of a bathroom? This is a wet room type bathroom - no separate shower. You just turn on the shower and the water runs all over the floor. There is drainage in the corner. This is common in homes and a lot of guest houses and smaller hotels in Asia. If you stay in more expensive hotels you would never see this. The shower head is almost at the ceiling. You do have the option of washing in the bucket as well. Or having the water go into the bucket (although that doesn't always work too well) and dumping it. All an experience. The floor was slip proof which was a huge relief. Falling is one thing but falling down and breaking something when you are naked..oh the humiliation...
The homestay was down a somewhat quiet lane. My room was not facing any traffic so the only thing that woke me was either barking dogs or roosters in the morning. A sweet little girl in that pinkish house would greet me most times when I came "home" but I never managed to get a photo of her. I found everyone friendly and helpful.
So let's head out and get some breakfast...
The "chai" stand on the main road in front of my homestay. In the morning I want COFFEE so unfortunately I never got to have some there. I do love masala chai. Hint: I hear people saying "chai tea"...no no...that is like saying "tea tea". It's chai (tea) or better yet masala (the spice) chai...now you know. (you're welcome)
Lots of electrical wire, etc. all over the place and let's not talk about the state of the sidewalks. You certainly need your wits about you when walking here. But hey, they have sidewalks no matter what state they are in so it's all good.
Yep, those are goats you see happily trotting along in traffic. Goats are to South India what cows are to North India.
They roam in gangs...
The kiddos heading for school - either on the back of dad's motorbike or walking. I approve of school uniforms. None of this "my clothes are better than yours" malarky. I wore one for three years and lived to tell the tale. (I am sure my parents, if they were alive could tell a different tale about my reaction to wearing a uniform in my early teen years)
As breakfast wasn't provided at my homestay (at $27 Cdn a night I really couldn't complain!) I chose a different place each morning for breakfast...hmmm..what will it be today? Let's go traditional..a dosa (pancake) with bread. Traditional but I was hungry an hour later...this was a one off....there was lots of selection of places to eat so I chose somewhere different every day.
After breakfast (and coffee!) let's go over to see the Chinese fishing nets. These are operated by a team of around six men. The net is balanced so the weight of one man walking to the end is sufficient for the net to be immersed in the water. It is left a few minutes before being raised by a team of five at the other end. It has become a tourist attraction and I was constantly beckoned over to the net for a "photo op" which would cost me. I took my pictures from the walkway.
It is fascinating to watch how these gigantic contraptions work. Truth be told, I stopped by every day I was in Fort Kochi to watch them.
Then there were the regular fishermen and their wares...
You could buy the seafood and have a local restaurant cook it if you wished. I didn't do this. Maybe nex time.
Time to do a bit of wandering and see some of the street art...
At home I am not much of a shopper but when I travel I do like to pick up the odd gift for friends and little reminders of special places for my home. Fort Kochi could never be accused of being a shoppers paradise unless you want to buy a sari. (now Mattancherry - another part of Kochi was a different story...) Wandering the streets was fun though.
Token dog photo - don't you worry there will be a separate post on the dogs of Fort Kochi
Time to go and get a cold drink and something to eat. Okay let's get real...what I really did was go back to my room, switch the a/c on and lay on my bed. It was hot! But you certainly don't want to see that sight so let's pretend I went to the cafe (which I did before I rested) and had something to eat.
Lemonade and chocolate cake - decadent enough for you? (my kind of lunch!) And as you can see I wrote in my journal. This was a daily ritual and one I like to follow on all my trips...afternoon tea or coffee somewhere to sit and write in my journal. There are so many beautifully decorated modern coffee shops in Fort Kochi (this was taken at the Loafers cafe) and I would try to go to a new one every day - although the Kashi Art Cafe got me in there twice for their absolutely delicious honey ginger lemonades.
Clothes, incense...I can't stand the smell of incense (another sad side effect of old age) so avoid those shops like the plague.
Here are my buddies...I would try to bring them ice cold water most days. Trouble was I couldn't find a proper dog dish so had to buy cheap containers which would leak. Ah well. Don't feel too sorry for them as they turned down my offer of food...they are well fed by the local shopkeepers. I saw none of the heartbreaking starving dogs that were deeply upsetting to me on my previous visit to North India. And yes I know that is terrible to say when there were people starving as well. Trust me, I got told off (by a tourist no less) for feeding stray dogs "when people in this country are starving". I guess it's official...I like dogs better than most people. (TRUTH) Anyway, in the heat of the day they welcomed ice cold water.
They sell everything on the sea promenade!
I think it's time to head for the beach!
Lots of freighters go past Fort Kochi into Kochi harbour....
I watched this fisherman for ages - there were usually two or three out in the water. They never seemed to catch much.
To me this was a bizarre sight but hey, it's India.
Selfie time! Teenagers are teenagers all over the world. They were so beautifully dressed I am sure it was a special occasion.
All sorts of snack vendors were set up along the sea promenade...
I'm getting knackered so it's time for a sit-down...SERIOUSLY MATE?
I thought about sitting beside the goat on the bench just so I could say that I sat on a bench with a goat..you know...if it ever came up in dinner conversation. But decided nah...and carried on. On the way back I saw an immaculately dressed young man sitting where the goat had been and I was so tempted to tell him there was a goat sitting there a few minutes ago and see his reaction. (yes, I am evil) Obviously though, those goats have probably made themselves at home on all the benches along the promenade so I am sure my butt has been planted where many a goat's butt has been as well.
These school kids were having the time of their lives in the water.
Time to head back to the room to get ready for an early dinner...but let's take the slow way back...
St Francis church is the oldest European church in India. It was originally built by the Portuguese in 1504 as a Roman Catholic church. It changed to Protestant when the Dutch captured Kochi in 1663. In 1795 the British took over Kochi but left the church in Dutch control until it was handed over in 1804 when it became an Anglican church and took on the name St Francis. Previous names were St Bartholomew and St Anthony. In 1923 it was declared a protected monument by the Archeological Survey of India. If those walls could talk!!!
Long post...so more than one token dog photo. I mean c'mon...how cute is this?
More goats. They were everywhere!
One of the prettier places in the town...these two little kids were dressed up for something special.
This is a hotel/restaurant although I never visited it - looked too posh for the likes of me.
This must have been a grand house in its day.
Almost back! Here is the Santa Cruz Basilica. Originally built by the Portuguese, it was spared by the Dutch who destroyed many Catholic buildings. The British demolished the building in 1887 and commisioned a new one. It was proclaimed a Basilica in 1984. (before that it was a cathedral)
There was an elephant festival going on the first few days while I was there. I didn't like seeing the elephants in chains and neither did other westerners I talked to. And that's all I will say about it.
Back for a quick change and wash up and it's off for a meal.
I'm just a cow.... grazing in a sports field...asking the ball not to hit me.
Chicken curry with rice
Deep fried bananas with honey and ice cream!
A quick trip to the beach to see the sunset....
Not bad but being from the prairies and the best sunsets in the world it didn't make me swoon.
Time to head over to see a performance of traditional dance at the Kathakali Centre which was a three minute walk from my homestay. (okay you realize this is a "perfect day" and doesn't reflect something I actually did all in one day right? I would have to be superwoman!)
Part of the performance was to go and see the makeup applied....this part was optional but included in the price so I went.
The floor was stenciled with this beautiful design while we were there. Can you believe someone walked through it to take a close up picture of the makeup application - we were all appalled (insert gasping noises) and she realized her mistake on the way back and walked carefully around the stencils but seriously! How rude! (but at least she did it to take pictures with her real camera and not her phone - now that would have been unforgivable!)
As you can see the makeup is detailed (and it's all men) and it really was an amazing performance as well. Kathakali as it is now dates from the 17th century but its roots go further back to religious performances in the first millennium.
I thoroughly enjoyed the performance which basically revolved around a demon changing himself into a beautiful woman as he/she has fallen in love with a handsome prince. Of course, the handsome prince realizes she is a demon (as she "tries to make loves to him" I am quoting from the program here and it includes the "s") and kills him/her. I think the demons were actually brother/sister. Anyway.... I guess you had to be there but it was great. And I'd do it again! But I'd skip the makeup part. I saw the narrator walking into the theatre the next morning so was able to tell him how much I enjoyed the show.
And that is my perfect day in Fort Kochi! Just writing about it makes me want to go back someday as there are still things I didn't do. I'll be writing more about India in the coming months so stay tuned!
Comments