When I booked my trip to London this time around I knew I wanted to keep it simple. My homestay host Claudia didn't have a room the week of December 27th so I had to find somewhere else to stay. I thought about perhaps going over to Europe and seeing some post-Christmas markets (some cities have them until early January) and I looked at such places as Amsterdam (haven't been there in a very long time) or Riga but it all seemed so complicated. After a traumatic few months battling and recovering from scabies I wanted something simple. So I decided to stay in England; I hadn't had a holiday just in England for donkey's years. Then it was deciding where I should go. I figured the south of the country would be warmer and while St Ives was tempting I have been there a few times. Then the Cotswolds beckoned but I knew I would want to go walking there and this wouldn't be the best time of year to do that. Plus I'd been there before. Then I thought of Bath...I'd been there twice before on day trips but the last time was in 2002. You really can't get the sense of what a city is all about in a day. So I booked an Airbnb for a week and that was that. Bath, it was!
Bath is the largest city in Somerset with a population of just less than 100,000 and is now a World Heritage Site. It is known for its Roman Baths and its beautiful Georgian architecture.
So on the 27th of December I set off for the Victoria Coach station via my arrival at Victoria rail station from Streatham Common station.
Here is the Christmas tree at Victoria station.
Victoria Coach station is a bit grim but does the job. Our coach was late and we weren't given an explanation (unlike the trains which generally apologize if they are even three minutes late) until half an hour later. Apparently, the original bus had "maintenance issues" just outside the station so they had to get in a substitute. This one was a double-decker and as I had booked a seat I got to sit upstairs in the posh seats that had a table. A bit confusing as my assigned seat was 3C but I was sitting in 3B and I kept thinking someone was going to come along and kick me out.
The older lady sitting next to me was sweet and we chatted pretty much the entire journey. Between the late start and delays on the road we were about two hours late. I hopped into a taxi upon arrival as my Airbnb was in a residential area north of the city centre.
I was warmly greeted by my hosts Hilary and Alan and their adorable cocker spaniel named Henry. My room was lovely and I had my own bathroom as well. Once they found out I hadn't eaten and rather than go out (there was a pub nearby that served pizza but that was about it..) that I was going to eat my granola bar they invited me to join them for their dinner. So I enjoyed a turkey curry and some wine with them. I have to rate them in the top five of hosts I've had. We talked nonstop about travel and music - we had so much in common as were around the same age as well.
Breakfasts were cereal, fruit, yogurt, toast, coffee and interesting conversation. Staying with Hilary and Alan was definitely a highlight. They even asked me to look after little Henry in September when they are going to Canada but I had to turn them down. Why? They got Henry after they retired and they don't leave him for longer than three hours. Nearly three weeks in Bath would be lovely IF I could take a few five or six hour trips to visit nearby villages but that long just in Bath. No, just too long. However if they take a shorter trip you may see me back there.
I enjoyed the bus trips to and from the city centre even if finding my seat on the bus was like climbing a mountain and I had to brace myself and hang on getting off. Why? The bus stop (a one minute walk from the house) was at the top of the steepest hill in Bath!
On New Year's Day the public transport was cut drastically for the day so we all went for a doggie walk with Henry in the late morning and in the afternoon we went to see a movie. And this is why I do Airbnb. Of course not all hosts are like this but I love the cozy feeling of staying in a home rather than an impersonal hotel.
This is the Church of St Mary in Charlcombe - originally built in the 12th century but had restoration work done in the mid 19th century.
Perhaps we walked in Jane Austen's footsteps!
Roman Emporers and Governors of Roman Britain overlook the Main Baths. These statues are a late 19th-century addition. Bath Abbey is in the background.
Due to my schedule, I decided to take a tour to a few places that were a bit difficult to get to using public transport.
Our first stop was the village of Castle Combe. This village has been the setting for such films as Robin Hood, Dr. Doolittle (the original) and War Horse.
This place thoroughly enchanted me. I don't recall even seeing a restaurant or cafe there although there could have been and it looked like there was a bus maybe once a week.
Next up was the Avebury stone circle. It is a neolithic henge monument with three circles surrounding the village of Avebury. It is the biggest stone circle in the world. You have to cross a busy road to get from one part of it to the other.
Bath is the largest city in Somerset with a population of just less than 100,000 and is now a World Heritage Site. It is known for its Roman Baths and its beautiful Georgian architecture.
So on the 27th of December I set off for the Victoria Coach station via my arrival at Victoria rail station from Streatham Common station.
Here is the Christmas tree at Victoria station.
Victoria Coach station is a bit grim but does the job. Our coach was late and we weren't given an explanation (unlike the trains which generally apologize if they are even three minutes late) until half an hour later. Apparently, the original bus had "maintenance issues" just outside the station so they had to get in a substitute. This one was a double-decker and as I had booked a seat I got to sit upstairs in the posh seats that had a table. A bit confusing as my assigned seat was 3C but I was sitting in 3B and I kept thinking someone was going to come along and kick me out.
The older lady sitting next to me was sweet and we chatted pretty much the entire journey. Between the late start and delays on the road we were about two hours late. I hopped into a taxi upon arrival as my Airbnb was in a residential area north of the city centre.
My Airbnb
I was warmly greeted by my hosts Hilary and Alan and their adorable cocker spaniel named Henry. My room was lovely and I had my own bathroom as well. Once they found out I hadn't eaten and rather than go out (there was a pub nearby that served pizza but that was about it..) that I was going to eat my granola bar they invited me to join them for their dinner. So I enjoyed a turkey curry and some wine with them. I have to rate them in the top five of hosts I've had. We talked nonstop about travel and music - we had so much in common as were around the same age as well.
Breakfasts were cereal, fruit, yogurt, toast, coffee and interesting conversation. Staying with Hilary and Alan was definitely a highlight. They even asked me to look after little Henry in September when they are going to Canada but I had to turn them down. Why? They got Henry after they retired and they don't leave him for longer than three hours. Nearly three weeks in Bath would be lovely IF I could take a few five or six hour trips to visit nearby villages but that long just in Bath. No, just too long. However if they take a shorter trip you may see me back there.
I enjoyed the bus trips to and from the city centre even if finding my seat on the bus was like climbing a mountain and I had to brace myself and hang on getting off. Why? The bus stop (a one minute walk from the house) was at the top of the steepest hill in Bath!
On New Year's Day the public transport was cut drastically for the day so we all went for a doggie walk with Henry in the late morning and in the afternoon we went to see a movie. And this is why I do Airbnb. Of course not all hosts are like this but I love the cozy feeling of staying in a home rather than an impersonal hotel.
This is the Church of St Mary in Charlcombe - originally built in the 12th century but had restoration work done in the mid 19th century.
Perhaps we walked in Jane Austen's footsteps!
The Roman Baths
One of Europe's most significant Roman sites, this spa complex dates from 70AD. Every day 1,170,000 litres of mineral water bubble to the surface with at a temperature of 46C. It was a place to relax and visit with each other for the Romans.
Roman Emporers and Governors of Roman Britain overlook the Main Baths. These statues are a late 19th-century addition. Bath Abbey is in the background.
This is the source of mineral water.
The Roman Baths are a MUST SEE when you are in Bath but I'd advise booking ahead online.
The Mayor's Honorary Guides Walk of Bath
No, the Mayor doesn't actually take you for the walk! However, these walks are led by certified guides who volunteer their time. The walks are free and you cannot tip. Highly recommended! You not only walk around seeing the main sights but you learn so much history. Our guide was very chatty so we didn't get to see everything after the allotted two hours - that's okay I did the rest on my own.
This is the Royal Crescent - I used the panorama mode on my phone to take this. (phone cameras have their uses now and again)
As you can see the buildings are all the same honey colour limestone known as Bath stone. Above is the Circus which was completed in 1768 - three equal terraces that form a circle around a small park.
Pulteney Bridge was built in the late 18th century and is an iconic landmark in the city.
This is one side of the bridge...
And this is the other....
Bath Abbey was the first place I visited in Bath. Admission is by donation.
Pulteney Bridge was built in the late 18th century and is an iconic landmark in the city.
This is one side of the bridge...
And this is the other....
Bath Abbey
Bath Abbey was the first place I visited in Bath. Admission is by donation.
Bath Abbey was built between 1499 and 1616 which makes it the last great medieval church built in England.
I love the stained glass, architecture and history of these buildings. It's interesting to see the statues and monuments to local citizens.
A short tour into the Cotswolds
Our first stop was the village of Castle Combe. This village has been the setting for such films as Robin Hood, Dr. Doolittle (the original) and War Horse.
This place thoroughly enchanted me. I don't recall even seeing a restaurant or cafe there although there could have been and it looked like there was a bus maybe once a week.
Next up was the Avebury stone circle. It is a neolithic henge monument with three circles surrounding the village of Avebury. It is the biggest stone circle in the world. You have to cross a busy road to get from one part of it to the other.
I climbed up a hill where I could get a better view - loved the shadows!
I am so grateful I saw this - another place that is difficult to get to without a car. It is really hard to photograph it as it is so spread out. I still prefer Castlerigg in the Lake District but this was very impressive too.
Next up was the village of Lacock (pronounced Laycock - behave!) which is almost entirely owned by the National Trust (people do live here though) and is known for its unspoiled appearance. A shame about the cars but these do belong to the residents I believe as there is a car park just for visitors. There are a lot of tourists so you will definitely find places to eat here. The village is on a grid and consists of just four streets. It is unique in that it has no street lights or TV antennas/satellite dishes. It has hosted filming for such movies as Harry Potter, Emma, Downton Abbey and Pride and Prejudice.
Yes, this palace even had a moat!
This is Pero's footbridge - known as the Ear Trumpet bridge. The bridge was named in honour of Pero Jones and other slaves who were brought over to Bristol. These horn sculptures act as counter balance for when the bridge lifts up to allow boats through.
Bristol Cathedral - which is quite beautiful. And they have toilets!!! And a cafe which I didn't visit.
Along Park Street there is a Banksy called "Well Hung Lover". I was expecting something totally different!!! The mysterious street artist is believed to have been born in Bristol in the mid 70's.
The biggest thrill was seeing Clifton Bridge and walking over it. I am a big fan of the Brunels - a father and son team of engineers who designed many bridges as well as tunnels. (and a ship!)
This was my first time walking over it - I walked back over it...not on purpose but you will just have to read the upcoming post on Bristol to find out why!
I am so grateful I saw this - another place that is difficult to get to without a car. It is really hard to photograph it as it is so spread out. I still prefer Castlerigg in the Lake District but this was very impressive too.
Next up was the village of Lacock (pronounced Laycock - behave!) which is almost entirely owned by the National Trust (people do live here though) and is known for its unspoiled appearance. A shame about the cars but these do belong to the residents I believe as there is a car park just for visitors. There are a lot of tourists so you will definitely find places to eat here. The village is on a grid and consists of just four streets. It is unique in that it has no street lights or TV antennas/satellite dishes. It has hosted filming for such movies as Harry Potter, Emma, Downton Abbey and Pride and Prejudice.
Those that were going on to Stonehenge got to have lunch here while the rest of had 45 minutes to look around before being driven to the nearby train station. Perhaps I will go back someday when it's not high tourist season; then again maybe not.
Wells (smallest city in England)
With a population of only around 12,000 Wells would not normally qualify as a city in England however thanks to the beautiful Medieval cathedral it does.
I took a bus from Bath to Wells and the journey took about an hour and fifteen minutes.
As you can see it was a dark dreary humid day but I never let that stop me. Through this beautiful archway is the Bishop's Palace.
Yes, this palace even had a moat!
The entrance was pretty impressive as well...sadly it was closed until after the New Year. Insert very very sad face...but I will be back.
I then wandered over to the cathedral.
I arrived just minutes before the hourly (free) guided tour began and it was excellent. The cathedral was built in stages between 1180 and 1508. It's known for its scissor arches (pictured below) which counter balance the central tower. You can take a tour of the higher areas including the roof; no thanks.
It also has a beautiful 14th-century clock that still chimes and has a character moving.
And then there was Vicars Close which was fantastic. This street dates from the 14th century and is the oldest purely residential street with original buildings in Europe.
Here is a view down Wells's main street. I really liked this place and I will definitely be back.
A Walk around Bristol
I have been wanting to visit Bristol for years now so with it only being a half hour train journey away I jumped at the opportunity. The walking club I belong to is international and has walks all over the world. One is in Bristol but it was 12 km and I didn't think I was up to it but was going to try. On January 2nd I headed over there and I did it! At my own pace and with plenty of sitdowns and lunch in there too. I will be doing a post on this lovely walk but here are a few highlights.
This is Pero's footbridge - known as the Ear Trumpet bridge. The bridge was named in honour of Pero Jones and other slaves who were brought over to Bristol. These horn sculptures act as counter balance for when the bridge lifts up to allow boats through.
Bristol Cathedral - which is quite beautiful. And they have toilets!!! And a cafe which I didn't visit.
Along Park Street there is a Banksy called "Well Hung Lover". I was expecting something totally different!!! The mysterious street artist is believed to have been born in Bristol in the mid 70's.
The biggest thrill was seeing Clifton Bridge and walking over it. I am a big fan of the Brunels - a father and son team of engineers who designed many bridges as well as tunnels. (and a ship!)
This was my first time walking over it - I walked back over it...not on purpose but you will just have to read the upcoming post on Bristol to find out why!
I got off track on the walk (more on that in the upcoming post) and had to take a ferry across the river where I paid a quick visit to M Shed, a museum of Bristol's history which is housed in a former dockside transit shed. The cranes are still here on what is now the harbour side walking path and on weekends they do demonstrations. Need I say a return trip to Bristol is definitely planned!
What a great week! When I left Hilary said that she and Alan wondered what I would do for a week in Bath but she said "you kept really busy".
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