"Tails" from the Hound - Part 1 (The Southern US)

 Something that people may not know about my adventures is that while I love to travel to Britain and beyond, a lot of my travels have been around North America.  Thanks to my walking club I have been in every province and territory in Canada as well as a lot of the United States. Why?  So I can put a stamp in my book to show I've walked a capital city!  Yes, I am a bit of a fanatic about things but I never claimed I was normal.  A major portion of my travels in the United States in particular were on the Greyhound bus system which I accessed from here.  Sadly the Greyhound no longer runs in my part of Canada so I am so grateful I did these journeys when I could.  

While a lot of people turn up their noses at the Greyhound (it's been referred to as the "loser cruiser" for example) I loved (most of) my trips on the hound.  Okay sometimes there are a "certain type" of clientele like the fellows who board the bus carrying a brown paper bag with their name on it as you see the sheriff's car throwing up rocks as it swiftly drives away.  You just make sure you keep a beadier eye on your possessions.  If I'm ever in a halfway house after leaving jail trust me I know all the ins and outs thanks to overhearing conversations on the hound. 

This series of posts will be about a six-week bus trip I took in January and February of 2008 when I headed to the southern United States. (and I managed a one week trip to Costa Rica with a friend in there too but that's another post!)  My bestie Linda had moved to North Carolina a year previously so the goal was to visit her and her family, see the South and add some of those southern capital stamps to my walking book.  I purchased a six-week Discovery Pass for around $800 Canadian. 

Before leaving home I started not feeling that great but I put it down to excitement.  I went to the counter and got my pass stamped (this is an important detail) and sat waiting.  All of a sudden I did not feel good AT ALL and let's jusit say I got to know the bathroom at our (then) cruddy bus depot in in a more intimate way than I had ever planned to.  Feelng very sad, I got a taxi home and was very ill that night.  I was so grateful I had decided not to go as let's just say it would not have been pretty and I would likely have had to find a place to stay in Winnipeg for a couple of nights (and embarrassed myself on the bus - I'd already been there, done that a couple of years previously...)  Four days later I was back at the depot but this time feeling much better.   I probably would have left sooner as I felt right as rain the next day (I still think it was food poisoning)  however the bus from Winnipeg to the United States only went a few times a week.  The service was eliminated a few years later and now there is no Greyhound at all in western Canada with the exception of Vancouver I believe. (don't get me started on THAT...)  After disembarking in Winnipeg I had a quick light breakfast in the depot I before boarding another bus for the trip south of the border. 

We cruised through Grand Forks, North Dakota and stopped at Fargo where we had a lunch stop.  I hoofed it over to a diner I had visited on a previous visit where I had the same yummy thing - a grilled veggie sandwich with sweet potato fries.  Sweet potato fries weren't really the "thing" here in my neck of the woods that they are now so it was a real treat.  While waiting for the Minneapolis bound bus in Fargo I started talking with a woman who was the president of the Barry Manilow fan club.  She had an extra ticket for his upcoming concert in St. Paul and oh boy I was sorely tempted.  However, my trip had already been delayed by half a week and that would put me even further behind plus the fact I had reservations that had already been changed once. While I had a flip phone with a card to use to call within the United States the only way I could access the internet was through internet cafes.  Then it was time to board the next bus. 

Upon arrival into Minneapolis that evening I put my suitcase into lockers, just keeping my backpack and purse with me.  I hopped a local bus to the youth hostel where I crashed for one night.  They were renovating the hostel and while the kitchen and bathrooms were modern my room was horrid.  Oh well, only one night!  I was able to get onto a computer to access the 'net and do a bit more "switching around". 

The next morning I walked over to a restaurant on Nicolette Avenue called "The Bad Waitress"  You fill out your own order sheet, take it to the cashier and pay for it. Water and coffee were self serve.  I had visited it when I was in Minneapolis previously.  I love Minneapolis - it is one of those unpretentious places that doesn't realize how wonderful it really is.  Then it was back on the bus to the Greyhound depot to retrieve my luggage and get on the bus for my next leg of the journey. I had planned to spend two nights in Minneapolis however that had to be canceled. 

After various meal stops (mostly McDonalds - ugh) in Wisconsin, we rolled into Chicago where I admired the beautiful buildings lit up at night as we approached the city centre. There was a change of buses and then a middle of the night journey through Indiana and Kentucky.  Finally, at 9:30 a.m. we rolled into Nashville, my first real stop of the trip. 

Why would someone who is not a country music fan go to Nashville?  Because it's the capital of Tennessee!!  I hopped in a taxi to the Comfort Inn where I dumped my luggage and went for a breakfast of scrambled eggs on a toast (thank goodness for journals; I would not have known this important breakfast item if I didn't have that) at a cafe across the street.  And then guess what I did?  I went for a 12 km walk!  

I think during this walk I was sleepwalking a bit and I noted in my journal that while I thoroughly enjoyed the walk it was exhausting.  

One of my first stops was at the beautiful Union Station.  Rail service to Nashville stopped in 1979 and it is now a Marriott hotel but I thought the sign above the check-in desk was a nice touch.  

I love seeing all the different designs of the state capitals in the United States. 

I always make sure I have plenty of pictures of the State capitals!  However, I don't recall visiting and as it was a Saturday so it was likely closed.  

I got some great views of the city...

Above is the Cumberland River that runs through Nashville. 

On the side of the building is a sign of its musical roots.  There was music playing out of speakers as you walk around the city.  I have to say some wasn't country as I realize Nashville isn't ALL about country anymore. 

The famous Printers Alley

Elvis the Pelvis!! 

Okay who is this supposed to be?  John Belushi of the Blues Brothers? 

By this time I was seeing double with exhaustion and I'd covered a lot of ground since those scrambled eggs on toast. My dogs were barking and my stomach was rumbling!  So the next stop was Rippy's Bar and Grill for ribs.  No pictures, sorry!!  I devoured them like a wild beast. Then it was back to the Days Inn for a hot bath and bed. Zonk! 

I had a great sleep and the next morning I showered and headed for the free breakfast. Today was an 11 km walk!!  This was a different view of Nashville away from the main downtown area.  

This is the Musica statue which sits in the middle of the Music Row and conveys the importance of music to the city.  

As you can see it was rather a dull day but that's okay - not every day is sunshine.  You just have to make your own! 

I absolutely loved this sculpture in Fanny Mae Dees Park, unofficially known as "Dragon Park".  This is actually a sea serpent which I somehow failed to take a picture of it in its entirety.  What fun kids would have climbing all over it -this kid was tempted! 

Then on to the Parthenon which is a full-scale replica of the Parthenon in Athens. Who knew?  I sure didn't.  It was built for the Tennessee centennial exposition in 1897 and rebuilt in 1929 when it became unsafe.  

It was absolutely beautiful - so impressed!! (and yes, I've seen the real thing) 

I got a laugh out of this bird.  It looks pretty pleased with itself in the second picture. 

Then I carried on through the grounds of Vanderbilt University where I got more than misplaced - I was lost!  After asking a few zillion students I found my way out and carried on to the Belmont mansion.  

I staggered inside and looked around and found it quite interesting.  Back then no photos were allowed so I bought postcards!! 

It was all very elegant. 

It was getting pretty cold as I neared the end of the walk and I was getting hungry so I stopped at the Pancake Pantry in trendy Hillsboro Village.  I had orange walnut pancakes and they were delish!!

Back to the hotel for a hot bath and to relax for the rest of the evening.  

Sadly I did not have a good night.  I woke to a dripping sound and there was water coming through the light fixtures in the bathroom!  So I had to move - luckily I was pretty much packed up as was due to move on in the morning.  

After another hotel breakfast, I walked to the bus depot with my luggage much to the horror of the front desk clerk and a passing taxi.  Maybe they knew something I didn't but I got there in one piece.  And then the fun started!!!  

In the US you have to show the pass and they issue you a proper ticket.  The staff in Minneapolis happily issued me my ticket with no issues whatsoever.  Well, the ticket clerk in Nashville insisted the pass had expired.  There was an issue date when the pass was created before it was mailed to me and then when I turned up on the original day I was due to leave the office staff then put an "x" on the month and date I was supposed to leave. She insisted that the pass was expired as it was past six weeks since it had been processed at Greyhound headquarters in Canada. I tried to explain the difference between the dates but she was adamant I would have to buy a ticket.  She got her supervisor who said the same thing.  Of course, the ticket was half in French as well which confused them too.  I argued and would not give in.   Finally they "let" me get on the bus insisting to the very last minute that it was invalid.  Honestly, you can't fix stupid.  I was just angry and sick over this and every time I presented my pass to the station staff from then on I was so nervous but I never got a hassle after that.  

Shakily I boarded the bus and off we headed...next destination Alabama!!! 

Sadly Montgomery (capital of Alabama) was one of the places I had to sacrifice because of being ill.  I was heading to Birmingham as I had booked a ticket to see an exhibition on Pompei on the 15th of January and I could not miss that. Not to worry, I was able to get to Montgomery two years later on another bus trip. 

The bus trip was only four hours and I arrived early afternoon.  The taxi dropped me off at my Bed and Breakfast in the Five Points area of Birmingham but I was too early and my hosts were out.  So I hauled myself and my luggage down to a nearby Starbucks for a relaxing cold drink.  I asked someone there about a good place to eat and they recommended Jim and Nick's Barbeque restaurant so off I went for an early dinner.  My BBQ chicken sandwich was delicious.  I phoned the B and B from the restaurant and they were in so back I went, staggering up the hill. 

I stayed at the Cobb Lane Bed and Breakfast which was a bit of a splurge and I loved every minute of it.  I relaxed in the parlour that evening.  (as you do...) 

I stayed in the Camelia room. 

It was all frilly and over the top but I loved it!  It is fun to stay in places other than a bland hotel room. 

The next morning after a delicious homemade breakfast of scrambled eggs, chicken salad in a biscuit, orange juice and coffee I headed out to start a lovely 5 km walk in the Highland Avenue area.  There were some beautiful southern houses and I thoroughly enjoyed it. 

I really loved this neighbourhood and if I ever return to Birmingham (never say never) I would stay there.  

Then it was time to hop a trolley downtown to see the Pompei exhibit which was amazing.  No photos allowed.  Years later I saw an exhibit in Toronto with my sister and niece and was able to take photos.  Here are a couple of postcards. 

I have wanted to visit Pompei since I was a child and you can bet once we can travel again it's first on the list. (well second, after London) I'll be visiting it solo so I can enjoy every minute of the day without worrying about other people being bored, etc. I plan to savour every minute! 

From there I walked over to the Civil Rights Institute.  I cannot understand how humans can treat other human beings that way.  Just before you leave iou can watch the entire Martin Luther King "I have a Dream" speech on television.  Needless to say I left in tears.  

These are sculptures outside the building; photos inside were not allowed.  (once again, I assume they are now) 

I hopped back on the trolley to Five Points where I visited the Mellow Mushroom restaurant and had the most delicious mushroom (of course) pizza.  Back to the bed and breakfast to get my stuff and one of the owners drove me to the bus station.

I really have a soft spot for Alabama.  Yes I am fully aware of its racist history, evangelical religions and conservative leanings which I certainly do not agree with but the people were kind to me and I enjoyed my three trips there.  

Where to next?  I was headed north to spend a couple of days resting at my friend Pat's place in Buffalo before we headed south for a one week holiday.   Yes I did all of the above in one day and then got on an almost 24-hour overnight bus journey.  Yes, I know I am nuts. 

The trip north was Greyhound at its absolute worst.  Got on a packed bus to Nashville. Okay, I can handle that.  The line up in the Nashville depot to carry on to Detroit was horrendous and sure enough, one bus was boarded and was full to the rafters so off they went leaving the rest of us standing there with no explanation.  There was no word from the Greyhound staff on what they were going to do with us - we were totally ignored.  This was a common theme in the United States with Greyhound - apparently, they must view Greyhound passengers as the lowest of the low I assume and we get no respect.  Between all of us asking every staff member we found out the next bus to Detroit (which is how my ticket was routed) was at 2:45 a.m.  All of a sudden around midnight we were told to go to gate three immediately and we got on a bus to Louisville.  One fellow I had been chatting to was so kind and carried my luggage for me.  As the bus already had passengers and I was one of the last on I had to sit right at the front - they call it the "suicide seat" as if you had a head on collision you would be toast.   Once on the highway I looked on in disbelief as the driver started leaning over and digging in his bag (carrying a full load of passengers) and pulled out his iPod and put it on!  Yep listening to his tunes on his earphones while cruising down the highway.   You can't make this sh*t up.  In Lousiville, we hung around the station a bit and then were put on a bus to Cincinnati where there was lots of room to stretch out. (yay!)  Another change and I got into Buffalo on schedule.  Double yay!  

About ten days later I was back on my southern journey but that will have to wait until next time!