St Magnus Cathedral and a very special Chapel in Orkney

We're not done with Orkney quite yet.  This will be the last post about my time there but I wanted to talk about the wonderful St Magnus Cathedral and a couple of other places I visited.  

I've been to many a cathedral in my time and truthfully, I'm pretty much done with them.  Not being religious I don't find them spiritual nor do they have any deep meaning to me but I do admire the architecture and the history.  Plus they are a good place to sit down, have a rest and a quick check of my guidebook or map!!  

However, St Magnus is pretty special as it was originally constructed by Norsemen. St Magnus Cathedral was founded in 1137 by Earl Rognvald, the nephew of St Magnus.  When first built the cathedral was part of the Archdiocese of Nidaros (now Trondheim) in Norway.  Orkney became part of Scotland in 1468 and the cathedral was gifted to the people of Kirkwall by the Scots king, James III. (this blurb is from the official St Magnus brochure) 

Why was St Magnus built?  It is a very interesting story.  Magnus Eriendsson was the Earl of Orkney in the early 1100's. He shared the Earldom with his cousin Hakon but they did not get on and Orkney suffered as a result.  To settle the dispute Hakon and Magnus held a meeting on the island of Egilsay.  Hakon broke the agreement to bring unarmed men, instead arriving with eight ships of armed men. (tosser!!)  Rather than kill Magnus himself, Hakon ordered his cook Lifolf to do the deed.  Magnus died praying, killed by an axe to the head.  He was buried in Birsay and stories grew of miracles at his grave.  People began to believe that Magnus was a holy man.  (This came from the official brochure as well; except for the tosser comment!)  Magnus' nephew Rognvald came from Norway to claim his uncle's Earldom.  He built the cathedral in homage to his Uncle Magnus.  The remains of St Magnus were brought to Kirkwall followed a few years later by those of Rognvald who was killed in 1158.  The bones of both men lie within the walls of the choir.  

After the Scottish Reformation in 1560 the cathedral became a Protestant church but today it belongs to the people of Orkney and can be used by any denomination.  The cathedral is referred to as "The Light in the North". 

The three statues were carved in 1965 by Oracadian artist Stanley Cursiter.  They depict Kol Kallison (Rognvald's father), Rognvald (holding the cathedral) and William the Old who was the Bishop of Orkney when the cathedral was built. 

Can you see the Green Man's face? 

This is a memorial to Dr John Rae, the explorer.   Remember him?  He is buried in St Magnus churchyard with a very modest tombstone - I failed to find his grave. 

There were many headstones along the walls.  They once covered burials but the remains were exhumed and reburied in the graveyard.  Skull and crossbones are a common feature on old gravestones.  

On my last day on Orkney I headed out of town again.  On the way the bus passed over the Churchill barriers which are four causeways linking the mainland (what they call the main island) to Burray and South Ronaldsay.  These were constructed during World War II as a defense against enemy attacks - work began in 1940 and they weren't officially opened until just after the war ended.  Most of the work was done by Italian Prisoners of War who were captured in Libya and taken to Orkney.

Here is one of the barriers/causeways.  

These are the remains of hulks of sunken ships. Hundreds of ships were deliberately sunk to provide a defense barrier between the islands however a Nazi submarine was able to find a gap in the defense and sunk the HMS Royal Oak in Scapa Flow. This was when it was decided to build a more permanent defense and construction on the Churchill Barriers began.  Scapa Flow was used as the main base of the British Home Fleet.  Up to 40,000 men were based in Orkney during the peak of activity in World War II so it was imperative that it was kept safe. 

The bus terminated at St Margaret's Hope and I wandered around a bit before stopping to have a delicious late lunch.  St Margaret's Hope is the main town on the island of South Ronaldsay.  It was possibly named for Saint Margaret of Scotland (1045 - 1093) who may have died in this location.  Kind of vague if you ask me, but nobody asked!!  It's the third-largest settlement in Orkney (after Kirkwall and Stromness) with a grand population of 550!!!  Not much was going on...

A ship propellor - not sure why it's here but made for an interesting photo. 

Further along the road is a ferry terminal that goes to a port near John O'Groat on mainland Scotland. 

Okay, it wasn't the most exciting place in the world but it was quiet. 

And it makes darn good open-face lobster sandwiches!!! 

As I was taking the overnight ferry to Shetland a few hours later I was appreciative of a good meal like this.  I almost licked the plate clean. 

I hopped back on the bus heading back to Kirkwall and got off at the Italian Chapel.  This is called "The Miracle of Camp 60" as it was built by Italian Prisoners of War. (yes, the same ones who worked on the Churchill Barrier)  At first the Italians made paths and built flower beds.  They had a theatre and recreational hut with a billiard table but they lacked a chapel.  Artist Domenico Chiocchetti first built the Saint George and the Lion statue to cheer up his fellow POW's when it appeared the Italians were failing in their war efforts.  Besides being the patron saint of England Saint George is a patron saint for soldiers as well as several villages in Italy.  

In late 1943 two Nissan huts were laid end to end.  One end was to be a chapel and the other a school.  Chiochetti and a small number of other POWs worked on the chapel.  Chiocchetti painted the Madonna and Child from a card given to him when he left for the war.  Palumbo, a POW and metalworker by trade made the candelabra, rood screen and gates.  

After the war the chapel fell into disrepair however in 1958 restoration started and in 1960 Chiocchetti returned to repaint the chapel.  Ten years later he brought his wife and children to visit the chapel.  

The Italian Chapel is beside the causeway/one of the Churchill Barriers.  

Back on the bus to Kirkwall and onto another to Stromness to walk around and eat ice cream but we already covered that in my Stromness post. 

I walked back to my Airbnb where Fiona was storing my luggage and headed to the ferry terminal for the next stop on my journey. 

Next stop Shetland!!