A visit to Scalloway, Shetland

 I awoke to rain pattering on the windows on that Tuesday morning.  "Well that's a bummer" I thought but what are you going to do?  I only had eight days on Shetland and a lot on my "to-do" list.  I've never let a bit of rain stop me.  After a light breakfast at my Bed and Breakfast, I set off to the bus stop.  

At 10:10 a.m I boarded the #4 bus for the twenty-five-minute ride to Scalloway.  The name Scalloway iis derived from Old Norse meaning "bay with the large house".  This town of 1300 people is known for its fishing industry and until 1708 it was the capital of the Shetland Islands. (Lerwick now is the capital)  However, the main reason I wanted to visit was to see the Scalloway Museum and learn more about the Shetland bus.  More on that later...

Just after my arrival, the rain stopped although the sun never did make an appearance.  I walked along the main street taking pictures; I was captivated by the colourful houses.  They were especially appreciated on this dull dank day.  

This rather grim building is Scalloway Kirk (Church) which was built in 1840-41.  As far as I know it is still operational and belongs to the Church of Scotland which is Presbyterian.  It is known locally as the Muckle Kirk or Big Kirk.  They must mean in importance because it's certainly not in size!  

I came here later for a drink. As in a drink drink.  

I imagine these colourful houses would be stunning on a sunny day but I was grateful to have a bit of brightness on this dreary day. 

The castle was just across from the Scalloway Museum - as it was having some restoration done I couldn't visit it.  As you can see it isn't a typical castle but a tower house that was built in 1600 by Patrick Stewart, 2nd Earl of Orkney during his brief rule of Shetland.  

Ponies!!!  Shetland ponies!! These were right outside the museum so of course I had to go and say hello and make a fuss.  

Heidi and Iggie weren't as friendly as the ponies at Jarlshof though.  

Of course being a rainy day the museum was PACKED but I still enjoyed my visit.  The main purpose was to learn more about the Shetland Bus.  

Of course, the Shetland Bus wasn't an actual bus.  When Norway was invaded and occupied by the Nazis in 1940 the King and members of the Norwegian government went into exile in London.  Thousands of Norwegians fled in fishing boats and the first landfall was Shetland.  Resistance groups remained in Norway but they needed supplies, arms and leaders to continue.  A secret organization was set up by the government that would bring Norwegians to freedom in the United Kingdom via Shetland and take back supplies, ammunition and resistance fighters to Norway.  This was done with fishing boats manned by young Norwegian volunteers who would sail in the dead of night (mainly in the winter when there was more darkness) to escape being spotted by the Nazis.  Scalloway was the main base of operations and the brave Norwegians were warmly welcomed into the community and given shelter before they headed back.   Some of the friendships that developed lasted a lifetime.  It is really a wonderful story of courage and here is a link if you want to read more.  I hadn't heard of this operation until I started researching Shetland. Forty-four lives were lost during these crossings due to air attacks from the Nazis and bad weather. There is a memorial to these courageous souls on the seafront of Scalloway. 

This memorial is made from stones that come from the home towns of all the forty four lives that were lost during the Shetland Bus operaton.  Their names are listed on four plaques around the memorial and the boat on top is typical of the vessels that were used.  Very poignant.  

Leaving the museum a little subdued after learning about this heroic mission I was cheered to see the two ponies with the pretty view in the background.  I certainly was grateful that I'd been able to see Heidi and Iggie up close and personal before I went into the museum. 

I was feeling peckish so I headed off for lunch.  The Da Haaf restaurant I had chosen to visit was a fair walk from the museum but all along the seafront so I enjoyed the (misty) views.  

This sculpture by Fly Freeman is called Head to the Wind. 

Lunch called for some warm soup so as I'm still in Scotland (though it always feels just as Nordic to me)  of course I had to have Cullen Skink which is a hearty creamy soup consisting of haddock, onions and potatoes.  Delicious!!!  

Belly full and all warmed up I headed back into town in a light misty rain.  

There were quite a few of these planters in Orkney and Shetland.  Love them. 

I had one more thing to do before I left Scalloway and that was visiting the Cornerstone cafe.  While everyone else seemed to be enjoying a late lunch or tea and cake yours truly had something else entirely.  Well it was five o'clock somewhere!!! 

There was more in that than tonic water!  

Then it was back to Lerwick and an evening tucked up in my cozy room.  

I felt Scalloway was worth the trip just for the interesting museum especially if you are a history buff like me.