During my second night on the Polarlys ship, one of seven Hurtigruten ships that ply the coast of Norway daily I was awoken by the announcement that the Northern Lights were out. I stumbled out of bed and dressed quickly before heading up the elevator to the top deck. Well let's say they were pretty underwhelming and let's not even talk about my pathetic pictures - well the one picture where you can actually see them. I stood there shivering hoping they would reappear but with no joy and then thought to myself "Laurie, this is insane. You are sick, get back to bed" and I did. I was quite pleased however that I was actually asleep and not hacking when the announcement came so that was progress.
I scurried off to breakfast and arrived there just five minutes after it opened at 7 a.m. and still could not get a table to myself by the window. I set a record for fast eating (and I'm fast) when a couple sat down at the table next to me.
The ship was twenty minutes late docking at Trondheim so I hoofed it as this city was one I was definitely looking forward to and it meant I had to be back in two and a half hours. Trondheim has a population of around 185,000 people and is the largest city we visited on our journey north. I really enjoyed this city and would like to return someday but whether that will ever happen is anybody's guess.
The walk from the ship into the city centre wasn't exactly shabby.
This is Nidaros Cathedral which was built on the burial site of King Olav II who is the patron saint of Norway. The original church was begun in 1070 and completed in 1300. By the early 19th century it was showing its age so a rebuild began. It is the northernmost Gothic cathedral in Europe. Sorry, I didn't go inside.
And this was the back...no clue what anything is because I had no information.
This is the Gamie Bybro (Old Bridge) which was constructed in 1681 and was a guarded city gate until 1816. It has gone through many changes over the years including more metal stabilization. It is also known as Lykkens Portal (Gate of Happiness). There is a poignant story attached to this bridge. The latter name was given to it after the lyrics of a popular waltz by composer Kristian Oskar Hoddo who wrote this waltz one April night while he was standing by the bridge. Hoddo, a member of the Norwegian resistance during World War II was executed in Trondheim in November 1943 along with eight other resistance members.
This is the view from the bridge
This statue is of Olav Tryggvason who was the city's founder and sits in the city centre.
I do love my coffee shops but didn't feel I had the time to linger here nor was I so inclined anyway as was still not feeling anywhere near 100%. If you're a regular reader you know I love nothing better than sitting in a coffee shop with a tea or coffee and a goodie catching up with my travel journal. I was so curious about a coffee shop with a camel logo. Never mind I stopped at one (it was a Norwegian chain) for an iced coffee in Bergen on the way from the ship to the LRT at the end of the voyage.
Boots the chemist (what North Americans call drugstores) in Norway. I was gobsmacked!!! Boots can be found on every high street in Britain.
This is the latest thing...buses that look like trams. Watch for one in your neighbourhood.
While I sat down a lot I did enjoy my slow walk around Trondheim. All too soon it was time to head back to the ship. Trondheim is definitely on my hit list if I go back to Norway. I felt guilty as I hadn't spent a single kroner in Trondheim.
I hadn't eaten all day and couldn't face another sandwich so I spent some money and ordered the world's worst pizza at the kiosk on the ship. (we had three meals a day included but it was the dining room only) I love pizza - I always say if I got to choose my last meal it would be pizza. I love it all..thin crust, Neopolitan style, Chicago style...but this was absolutely vile. I only ate some of it because I was really hungry and needed more than the granola bars that were in my suitcase.
Just outside of Trondheim we sailed by the distinctive-looking Kjeungskjaer Lighthouse which was built in 1880 and is obviously having restoration work done.
Once again I had a pretty early night and another early morning trying to beat the crowds for breakfast. Although I saw on my schedule that another Hurtigruten ship was going to pass by. All these "passings" were indicated on our schedule.
This is what happens when Hurtigruten ships pass each other. So cool!!!
Honestly, the scenery on this sea voyage is stunning and so varied.
At 8:30 a.m. we passed the Arctic Circle and as we did the Polarlys blared its horn. Such a special moment.
This is the marker for the Arctic Circle.
There was a ceremony later that morning to mark crossing the Arctic Circle where Neptune visited and doused some participants with ice water and champagne was served (for a charge). Sadly as I still was testing positive for covid I couldn't participate - or I should say responsibly participate. I felt a bit sorry for myself but that's life. Stay tuned...we were coming back over the Arctic Circle in a few days.
Mid-afternoon we docked at Bodo which is a small city of about 55,000 and it is the second largest city in northern Norway. Our stop was just over two hours.
I wandered a bit around Bodo but didn't find it wildly exciting except for the street art. I chuckled when I read my journal as I wrote that the most exciting thing about Bodo was that I got myself a big cup of tea to go! Of course, let's not forget I still wasn't functioning on all cylinders.
Back on board, the scenery was glorious as we drifted past.
Stamsund was just a quick 25-minute stop to unload and load. They discouraged us from leaving the ship on these short stops which I can totally appreciate. People being people some would wander off and be left behind. Whenever we stopped on one of these short trips you could guarantee a row of men channeling their inner little boy and hanging over the railings watching every move the crew made.
This is a remarkably bad photo of us going through the entrance to the tiny Trollfjord. It was so very impressive the way the ship navigated through the narrow entrance and rotated in the fjord to leave once again guided only by strategically placed lights. As you can see it was pitch black. Don't worry, we visited the fjord in daylight on the way back.
And that was Days 3 and 4!
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